Ok. I'm very thankful for your help.

 

It may be trial and error until you get it right. You're a much better mechanic than I am if, when you're all done, you don't turn around and wonder where those extra parts you see came from.

 

I have one c-clip left over, but I also had the crank replaced by a shop, so I'm sure that clip was replaced already. I'm making two bikes into one, so I know I'll have stuff left over. It took me an hour to get the oil pump back in though. Now I'm replacing the piston, rings and jug now.

 

Ok. I was back at it today. I have the bike fully assembled and ready to go, but i have no spark. I have a known good (new) stator, known good (new) coil, good cdi box, new brake and throttle lever and have all of the wires hooked up correctly. Fuse is not blown either. I am looking at the wiring diagram and have everything where it should. What am I missing? I am so stinking close to getting this bike done and my son is getting anxious to get out and ride. Help Old Polaris Tech.

 

I'd still go through the no spark/weak spark trouble shooting guide.
No Spark, Weak or Intermittent Spark
Spark plug gap incorrect
Fouled spark plug
Faulty spark plug cap or poor connection to high tension lead
Related wiring loose, disconnected, shorted, or corroded
Engine Stop switch or ignition switch faulty
ETC switch misadjusted or faulty
Terminal board or connections wet, corroded
Poor ignition coil ground (e.g. coil mount loose or corroded)
Faulty stator (measure resistance of all ignition related windings)
Incorrect wiring (inspect color coding in connectors etc)
Faulty ignition coil winding (measure resistance of primary and secondary)
Worn magneto (RH) end Crankshaft bearings
Sheared flywheel key
Flywheel loose or damaged
Excessive crankshaft runout on magneto (RH) end - should not exceed .0024″
Faulty CDI module

Plus check the coil tests,stator wire resistance tests shown in the wiring schematic even if the stator is new. Plus pull the black wire from the cdi and see if you have spark. If you do problem could be in the ignition switch,left control switch or their wiring. Don't overlook the safety switch wire connectors either. Here's a quick look at the schematic and tests.ftp://oskin.ru/pub/chrysler-dodge/ma...e%20Manual.pdf

 

I kind of knew you were going to say that. I was hoping you had some magical solution and I would be goo to go lol. I can go through that 1st list and rule out quite a bit. I will go back through everything maybe tonight or tomorrow if I have time. They had all of the wiring disconnected, so maybe I missed something or have something backward. I need to get this done so I can start on the one I bought for myself.

 

Start at Chapter 5.1 then head to the wiring schematic. Stator ohms resistance values are shown in a small box in the corner of the schematic.

 

Sounds like a plan. Thank you. Hopefully soon I will be updating with a video of him riding.

 

When you say known good (new) stator, known good (new) coil, do you know they're good because they worked in another identical ATV, or you ohmed everything out and they're within spec? New doesn't necessarily mean good.

 

All three came from the original yellow bike. I know all three were good because the bike fired up and ran. could the stator or coil have gone bad in the process of switching everything over to the red bike? Possibly, but I don't think so. I will have to grab my trusty multimeter and get to work if everything else checks out.