That's called "down shifting" as the load is removed from the clutches.This is where worn clutch bushings,whining belts, worn ramp buttons and the helix noises show up the most. If you noticed on the video the drive clutch made a little less noise when he gave it throttle under a load.At an idle they clatter like crazy. I had machines like this dropped off at the shop that I could hear the clatter and noise on the other side of the building before I could even see them pull into my area. I was already making up a parts list in my head even before I started writing up the work order..This is just letting clutch maintenance go too far or better yet never maintaining clutches to begin with.

 

Here is another video with a bit more throttle.

Ignore the steaming rad - it was just drying off.

I'll post a new video next weekend after I pull the clutch. I'm assuming it's safe to run with it off?

 

Take the drive clutch off and post the engine running again. You'll probably hear a great difference.. Won't hurt one bit to run the engine with the drive clutch off. Your neighbors may not complain either.. Plus on engine rebuilds like you've done I didn't install the clutches until after I ran the engines a while to make sure everything was up to snuff..

 

Clutch puller arrived today, but it was the wrong size. Hopefully the 2nd one I ordered is the correct one. Need to wait a couple of weeks though for shipping. Same time for new thermostat. Looking forward to a quiet and drip free engine test.

 

IF you can't rebuild that drive clutch(from the sound of it) it is an ebs clutch(with the one way bearing) used on your 99 model.Thought it was a no ebs version. Aftermarket ones aren't that expensive and come complete.https://www.ebay.com/itm/Primary-Dri...1Zlgft&vxp=mtr

 

I've bought 2 clutch pullers now and neither of them work. Am I missing something? I pulled the bolt to expose the hole and threads for the puller, but is there a spacer I need to pull out too?

Very frustrated...

This is what I had just purchased:

 

If the pullers you have are 3/4 x16,some one may have already changed this out for one of those after market clutches.I heard that the internal threads are different. Plus there shouldn't be a spacer in there... Pull it out and see if the puller will thread in. Some one may have used a home made puller with a spacer at one time or another and left it in?

 

I took another look. It's a comet brand clutch. Will have to try a third time to buy a puller.

 

Maybe find a 3/4x16 full thread or 2+" bolt and use an extension up against the crank to make your own puller. I have read of some guys using a deep well socket with a long enough bolt.
Another option might be to use a Allen head bolt that threaded into the crank and tightened the 3/4" bolt against the Allen head bolt.
https://talk.newagtalk.com/forums/th...asp?tid=118035

 

There is no part number on the clutch. Can't figure out the model number by searching online. May have to custom build one. May take a few trips to the hardware store to figure out the thread sizes...