Front Master cylinder:

Remove brake line first, and then the clamps. If you have the winch switch on the clamp like mine, it comes off too.




All set to take apart.



This was a definite Ruh-Roh moment.


The handle has to come off to get to the piston. All that holds it on is a single hinge pin secured with a tiny snap ring. Careful removing it as it could easily fly across the room. I lay a towel down and then cover my hands with a towel while removing small parts like this in case they try to fly away.


Those rust spots dripping on the paper towels From the open output port were not giving me much confidence.


First, I pried the old dust seal out. I has a metal base that I had to bend to remove it. Using a extra long allen wrench as a punch through the outlet port and through the middle of the spring inside, , a few light raps with a hammer pushed the parts out. It was then that I realized that I did not have to bend the seal to remove it. The allen wrench would have pushed it out, anyway, and it would have been reusable if necessary. when I saw the parts, all I could say was "Ugh".


After cleaning the bore. Amazingly, it was even better looking than the rear master cylinder. It seems all the rust was coming from the spring. After derusting and cleaning the parts, it looks like the only things needing replacement are the pressure seals and the dust seal.

 

Great pics! Very helpful to see the detail with your commentary.

First, not much left of that boot on the axle. Wow! Not sure if this boot was torn then fell apart or if it just disintegrated. I have an older ATV that both boots just fell apart when I was handling them. So I purchased a replacement on Ebay that was New Old Stock still in the original box and that one disintegrated too. Pretty frustrating but the seller gave me an immediate refund so no complaints.

Also, I've read that brake fluid in ATVs that get a lot of use should be changed every year. Maybe that is extreme but with all the rust you found even changing it every few years would have prevented much of the corrosion you encountered.

Thanks again and please keep us posted on everything you do.

 

Thanks for the compliments!

As far as the boot, it was all my fault. When I replaced the front springs, I pulled the strut outwards just a bit too much. The strut all of a sudden got very easy to move and had a lot more range. Like an idjit, I did not think it through and just put everything back together. The axle shaft is only held into the outer CV joint with a friction circlip. When I pulled it a bit too far, it pulled the axle out of the outer CV joint. I only rode if for a few minutes, but it only took one tire rotation to rip the boot in half. Thankfully, it did not do any damage to the cv joint or axle splines. Live and learn the hard way! Besides, it did let me get a close inspection of the boots and they are going, so I can plan for new ones on the others later.

 

Master cylinder continued:
Parts all cleaned and new parts laid out with them. This picture is to show that again, the seals are not the same. The diameters and widths are slightly different,


Installing the plunger on the new dust seal. This dust seal by Quad Logic is a bit different than the OEM Polaris. First, getting the plunger into the boot requires a bit of force since the hole in the boot is very small, unlike the OEM boot. Turning the boot inside out and a layer of white lithium grease on the plunger tip helps. Then turn it right side out.


Now it is right side out and inserted into the bottom of the plastic retainer ring. Make sure the plastic tabs are pointed toward the plunger tip. Then just insert the spring.


All ready for assembly.


Insert the spring and piston. If it does not go by hand, tap it in with a socket or punch. I put white lithium grease on the plunger and piston just as I found on disassembly.


Again with the sockets! A 12 point socket fit perfectly as a driver to tap the retaining ring into the recess. It was perfect for it.


All in. At least we now know how to put in a 2 part Quad Logic boot!


Alas, I broke the small clip that holds the brake handle pin in place. Harbor Freight to the rescue! I had on hand on of their E-clip assortments in the garage for a long time and it was still shrink wrapped. You just never know when that time will come.


Not necessary, but I put some Lithium grease on the pin and hole. Yes, I straightened out the problem with the reservoir cap. The seal was out of place.


Front Master cylinder finished.

 

Front caliper:

The left and right are mirror images of each other. Only difference is the right has a cup and a screw for the speed sensor.


Using a punch through the banjo bolt hole to drive the piston out. The bottom of the pistons are pretty thick.


I have been lucky with this so far. The bore is great.


The piston turned out great, too. No problems and just needs a bit more cleaning.


the slide pins are in great shape with no rust.


New parts kit. In the front calipers, the seal rings are installed in grooves in the bore. They give you two different sized bleeder screw covers. Just use the one that fits.


I can't seem to get away from the socket drivers. Here a larger one worked great to help drive the piston in after coating the bore and piston with brake fluid.


Installed new boots, and put Brake grease on the slide pins.


Don't forget to put the allen screw back.


All Done. The calipers started out pretty filthy, as expected. My daughter volunteered to clean the parts for me, so all kudo's to her for a job well done

 

Rear Caliper.

Calipers are all pretty simple and similar. So I'm just going to show the differences about the rear.

As disassembled. Again the bore and piston were great. Perfectly usable again.


Cleaned and new parts laid out to assemble. 2 parts are missing in the pic. The clips for the end of the slide pins and the caliper bracket.
The piston is stepped to allow two different hydraulic pressure chambers to act on the piston. One operates on the center back of the piston, and the other operates on the stepped part. This way, the front brake handle or the foot brake can operate the rear brakes. The foot brake only operates the rear brake.
The caliper is a two part casting so it can be separated to allow the much longer and larger diameter double piston to be installed and removed. Again, my daughter did a great job cleaning the castings up.


The piston with seals, and the dust seal installed. The dust seal has a lip that sits on the upper groove of the piston. The outer part of the seal is driven down into the recess. I put the piston in first, then drove the dust seal in and put the lip on the piston groove last. The kit comes with o-rings for the slide bushings. You need to drive the slide bushings out to replace them and drive the bushings back.


Last time with the sockets. I used this one to drive the seal into place. I had to go to my 3/4" drive sockets to get one large enough.


All bits and baubles assembled. Ready to install.

 

I have brakes! All calipers are in. Masters are in. Just have to bleed the systems now.

 

CV boots:


I cleaned the axle, took out most of the old grease, and checked the splines. Then pushed the new boots on the shaft, and got the outer CV joint back into place.


Playing with goo. Fresh grease for the joints.


The new boots will not work with the original Polaris bands. They came with new ones, so it was time to get the band back together.


All better. Boo boo all fixed.


Installed axle and rebuilt caliper.

 

So the only thing left is to Bleed the brakes, put the tires on, torque the hub nut and put in a cotter pin. I'll get that done this morning.

Then, fill the tank and go have fun!

I actually will make my goal: To get this ready and finished before my Birthday on Saturday. I'll be a happy 61 year old!

 

HAPPY BIRTHDAY to you!!!!!!