water in recoil and no spark, need advice!
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Depending on how much water you had in your recoil, it wouldn't hurt to pull things apart for a look. I've found that if you remove your air-cleaner box....don't know what machine you have, but should be similar. Remove the bolts holding on the recoil cover. Take a long piece of hardwood....hockey-stick stub works great. With all the bolts loose, there should be a tab on top, while reaching down from above with the wood, give it a few taps, and that should break the sealant free. To remove your flywheel....your stator with pickup coil is behind it. You will need a flywheel removal puller...I've had good luck using an automotive harmonic balancer puller. Put a bit of Hoppe's gun cleaning penetrant between the cranshaft and your flywheel, let that sit for a while to penetrate, and kinda evaporate. We use this stuff on our jets to help with corroded fasteners, and it works wonders. You may need to use a propane torch.....remember to be careful for the igniting Hoppe's. I've also had friends flywheels so stuck, that a few squarely placed blows on the face of the flywheel helps to break it loose. Your stator is under the flywheel so remember not to cook it with the torch. If you need stator repair or upgrading, Ricky Stator, who's ad is one of those small ones in the back of Dirt Wheels can help you. He normally has a 2-3 day turn-around, and can boost the power output for more lights, or whatever. Mark your stator before removal, because that is your timing adjustment. Even if you are very careful, you should still have your timing checked when this is put back together. Also make sure to overly seal the enging case where the wires pass through the engine, and coat your recoil handle seal with some grease or spray silcone. While you're in there, lube your starter bendix. Also a very thin smear of anti-sieze on your crankshaft before you reinstall your flywheel.
Good luck
KT
Good luck
KT
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