List your Polaris broken parts here!
#41
And,
now to add to my first list!I was loading up the Xplorer in the back of the truck today and heard a POP.I looked down at my new SideWinder chain/sprockets and the chain became VERY loose,I just adjusted it after I rode this past Sunday.Something in the Concentric drive unit give.I tried to re-adjust the chain again,the Concentric unit would only adjust it so far and it was NOT enough to keep the proper tension on it.The master cyclinder is also bad.My left side outer tie rod end is loose again.So,back to its home again [the dealership] it went.Im getting SOOOOOOOO tired of these junk a$$ Polaris parts.After owning two JUNK Polaris ATVs,im allmost certain that I wont be buying another one.What makes my choice so hard is that my Polaris mechanic Steve really gives me Presidential treatment and usually puts me in front of other work orders so I can get back on the trail quickly.This type of service is allmost impossible to find.I'll have to have a hard talk with the Yamaha dealer and see if he'll take that good a care of me too?If so,I could be GRIZZ 660 bound.I've had it with the poor quality of Polaris products.
Bill
now to add to my first list!I was loading up the Xplorer in the back of the truck today and heard a POP.I looked down at my new SideWinder chain/sprockets and the chain became VERY loose,I just adjusted it after I rode this past Sunday.Something in the Concentric drive unit give.I tried to re-adjust the chain again,the Concentric unit would only adjust it so far and it was NOT enough to keep the proper tension on it.The master cyclinder is also bad.My left side outer tie rod end is loose again.So,back to its home again [the dealership] it went.Im getting SOOOOOOOO tired of these junk a$$ Polaris parts.After owning two JUNK Polaris ATVs,im allmost certain that I wont be buying another one.What makes my choice so hard is that my Polaris mechanic Steve really gives me Presidential treatment and usually puts me in front of other work orders so I can get back on the trail quickly.This type of service is allmost impossible to find.I'll have to have a hard talk with the Yamaha dealer and see if he'll take that good a care of me too?If so,I could be GRIZZ 660 bound.I've had it with the poor quality of Polaris products.
Bill
#45
Stevexplor, I wish i had 35's on there. I am running 26" outlaws on 12" itp chrome steel wheels, durablue wheel spacers, highlifter lift kit, and every other mod that i could find to put on there. You are right about my quad flipping. I rolled it down a hill and took out the headlight pod, speedo, racks, and steering post. I blew a hole in the crankcase when the piston skirt came off and shot through the top of the crankcase. I replaced the crankcase and all the seals, bearings, and gaskets. I can't get the thing to run right now. I have been battling with it for a couple weeks now. I have had way too many problems with my machine. It was probably a lemon but now that everything is replaced at least twice it should be a new machine again. I have also replaced the brushes in the starter twice, new reed cage, clutch helix, and burnt up my warn 2500 lb winch.
#46
96 Scrambler 400 4x4 ( ridden hard and abused to the max)
Replaced because they broke or were buggered.
1. Strater motor
2. Brake master cylinder
3. Brake Pads (x3 all round) (can't work out why as I don't slow down much)
4. Tie Rods (custom made ones)
5. Rod ends (to fit custom rods)
6. Wheels
7. Tires
8. chains (x3)
9. Sprockets (x6)
10 belts (x3)
11 Hand grips
12 piston (x2)
13 throttle
14 Swing arm breaings (x4)
15 Front wheel bearings
16 Clutch buttons (x2 sets)
17 wheel studs (x3)
18 mod fan with switch to stay on
19 water bottle
20 modified shid plate
21 lower Stearing post bush (x3)
22 HPD Lower Stearing post bush
23 Upper stearing post bush
24 custom Upper stearing post bush
25 Repaired floor boards (x2)
26 Nearly every nut and bolt I take off gets replaced with stainless steel, and nylocks
Replaced due to user error (read crashed)
1. Tie rod
2. CV Joint
3. CV Boot
4. Armature
5. Stearing post
6. must be others here that I can't remember (damn concussion)
Replcaed - becuase I could!
1. Pipe
2. muffler
3. head
4. piston
5. carb
6. reeds
7. spacer
8. air bos
9. filter
10 handle bars
11 brakes (stainless lines & split f&r to my own design)
12 throttle cable
13 front struts
14 roller clutch
15 clutch spring (x2)
16 Clutch weights (x3)
17 HPD foot pegs
Needs to be replaced of repaired
1. Rear shock (PEP rebuild coming up!)
2. Axle (slight bend so Durablue coming up)
3. Hubs (to match new axle)
4. front springs (to match works struts)
5. Engine mounts (worn)
6. clutch cover (warped)
7. Chains and sprockets (x6) that time again
8. nudge bar for the front (so I can push those pesky Banshees out the way when they slow me down)
9. Or I could push the whole lot over a bank, claim insurance and buy a 4x4 Rapture, then add A arms, Axle, Swing arm, Holeshots (XCT's) Skid plates, Pro Design fliter etc etc etc
Must be other bits I have forgotton over the years, but it has never had to be towed back to the car, and never let me down on a ride! It will kill a banshee, rapture, 400ex out of the hole, but gets nailed by about 3rd gear. It will ride wheelies for as long as I have got the stones to hold it up for, and can not be beaten on the trails. Won't get stuck where others will, will climb where others won't, and does OK on the race track, speedway stack (not MX though) against the Warriors, 400ex's, 300ex's, and stock Banshees.
Replaced because they broke or were buggered.
1. Strater motor
2. Brake master cylinder
3. Brake Pads (x3 all round) (can't work out why as I don't slow down much)
4. Tie Rods (custom made ones)
5. Rod ends (to fit custom rods)
6. Wheels
7. Tires
8. chains (x3)
9. Sprockets (x6)
10 belts (x3)
11 Hand grips
12 piston (x2)
13 throttle
14 Swing arm breaings (x4)
15 Front wheel bearings
16 Clutch buttons (x2 sets)
17 wheel studs (x3)
18 mod fan with switch to stay on
19 water bottle
20 modified shid plate
21 lower Stearing post bush (x3)
22 HPD Lower Stearing post bush
23 Upper stearing post bush
24 custom Upper stearing post bush
25 Repaired floor boards (x2)
26 Nearly every nut and bolt I take off gets replaced with stainless steel, and nylocks
Replaced due to user error (read crashed)
1. Tie rod
2. CV Joint
3. CV Boot
4. Armature
5. Stearing post
6. must be others here that I can't remember (damn concussion)
Replcaed - becuase I could!
1. Pipe
2. muffler
3. head
4. piston
5. carb
6. reeds
7. spacer
8. air bos
9. filter
10 handle bars
11 brakes (stainless lines & split f&r to my own design)
12 throttle cable
13 front struts
14 roller clutch
15 clutch spring (x2)
16 Clutch weights (x3)
17 HPD foot pegs
Needs to be replaced of repaired
1. Rear shock (PEP rebuild coming up!)
2. Axle (slight bend so Durablue coming up)
3. Hubs (to match new axle)
4. front springs (to match works struts)
5. Engine mounts (worn)
6. clutch cover (warped)
7. Chains and sprockets (x6) that time again
8. nudge bar for the front (so I can push those pesky Banshees out the way when they slow me down)
9. Or I could push the whole lot over a bank, claim insurance and buy a 4x4 Rapture, then add A arms, Axle, Swing arm, Holeshots (XCT's) Skid plates, Pro Design fliter etc etc etc
Must be other bits I have forgotton over the years, but it has never had to be towed back to the car, and never let me down on a ride! It will kill a banshee, rapture, 400ex out of the hole, but gets nailed by about 3rd gear. It will ride wheelies for as long as I have got the stones to hold it up for, and can not be beaten on the trails. Won't get stuck where others will, will climb where others won't, and does OK on the race track, speedway stack (not MX though) against the Warriors, 400ex's, 300ex's, and stock Banshees.
#47
#48
I have a 95 400 2x4 i have replaced 2 belts 3 front sprockets one back sprocket 3 sets of brake pads 3 chains back tires swing arm bushings starter brushes and needle and seat in the carb 2 front shocks and all of this is over 10000 miles of riding it had impressed us bigtime and it still goes like a bat out of hell any day of the week!! it needs the clutch rebuilt and the speedometer does not work but i can live and ride with that this quad has had a hard life well actually a hard last 4 years because that is when we got it and it only had 500 miles in it then so it does get ridden a lot but it does not run in the winter it gets put away and we sled all winter on Polaris sleds i rode over 4000 miles on my sled last year and i am only 15 years old i am very much into Polaris 2 strokes i love them and could not live without them
Sproat
Sproat
#49
{I know of so many 400 xplorers (at least 15-20 in the club i ride in) that have never ever had one problem and a couple of 95's have around 9000 miles on them.]
Meangreenmachine i thought i was going to get bashed big time for what i said above.hehe.Of course i was just joking about none of them having problems they have all had there share.I have never heard of a 2000 bike with as much breaks as yours though.I geuss the 9 cv joints our probaly due to the outlaws?.Like i have said before i am not brand loyal,the only reason i chose polaris over the other was the following.
Real 4 wheel drive
Great ride
Lots of power
60 mph
Automatic
I'm not stupid i know that there not as relible as honda quads,i've had hondas before.But i can not stand hearing a motor running full tilt at 45 mph for 20+ miles.But now the other brands have what i like in a quad and more,so i might be jumping ship.I'm having a hard time believing that a quad 140 pds heavier with only 23 cc's more will keep up.But then i'll know the answer when i try one.This new 700 better be real real good because that 650 is really tempting me. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] See ya
Meangreenmachine i thought i was going to get bashed big time for what i said above.hehe.Of course i was just joking about none of them having problems they have all had there share.I have never heard of a 2000 bike with as much breaks as yours though.I geuss the 9 cv joints our probaly due to the outlaws?.Like i have said before i am not brand loyal,the only reason i chose polaris over the other was the following.
Real 4 wheel drive
Great ride
Lots of power
60 mph
Automatic
I'm not stupid i know that there not as relible as honda quads,i've had hondas before.But i can not stand hearing a motor running full tilt at 45 mph for 20+ miles.But now the other brands have what i like in a quad and more,so i might be jumping ship.I'm having a hard time believing that a quad 140 pds heavier with only 23 cc's more will keep up.But then i'll know the answer when i try one.This new 700 better be real real good because that 650 is really tempting me. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] See ya
#50
99 Xplorer 400 with 4600 miles, and 380 hours:
1. rear pulley bushings - because a friend of my brother's didn't know to use low range when drift bustin' this spring
2. Belt - reason same as above - it didn't break or leave me stranded, but it was starting to make flapping noises.
that is about it. My machine is stock except for a Uni filter (why throw it away when you can clean it) and a white primary spring (may have actually helped my belt last as long as it did under the abuse listed above by keeping more pressure on it so it didn't slip as much)
The lower steering bushing IS a poorly designed unit, but did you know you can tighten it up a bit if it isn't too loose. At the FIRST sign of looseness, tighten up the castle nut on the bottom of the steering stem. Do this with the front wheels off the ground. Before you bend the cotter pin over, move the handlebars fully from left to right. You should feel a little drag, but no binding. If you feel almost no drag at all, go a little tighter. If it feels at all if anything is binding, go a little looser. I know this is a PAIN in the rear, but I have gotten this far on the original bushing.
To make the brakes last longer, clean them up after any kind of mud ride. The mechanic at the dealership where I go to says 90% of all brake jobs he has to do are on machines that had mud packed in the brakes and left to dry there.
Kuderdan the clicking may be the brakes, the springs, or the front chain. Just because the brakes were new, doesn't mean they can't clatter. There is an adjustment bolt on the calipers that most mechanics don't mess with when doing brakes as they don't really effect pad life, just lever movement, and noise.
If it is the springs, squirting some WD-40 right at the top of the springs (there is a nylon bushing up there) will usually take the noise out of them.
If it is the chain, look for a bad link, or anyplace where the chain can rub. My Xplorer clicks in the back, and I had a devil of a time tracing it down. Turns out it is the master link just barely catching on the chain guard. Only the master catches as it is just a hair wider than the other links.
1. rear pulley bushings - because a friend of my brother's didn't know to use low range when drift bustin' this spring
2. Belt - reason same as above - it didn't break or leave me stranded, but it was starting to make flapping noises.
that is about it. My machine is stock except for a Uni filter (why throw it away when you can clean it) and a white primary spring (may have actually helped my belt last as long as it did under the abuse listed above by keeping more pressure on it so it didn't slip as much)
The lower steering bushing IS a poorly designed unit, but did you know you can tighten it up a bit if it isn't too loose. At the FIRST sign of looseness, tighten up the castle nut on the bottom of the steering stem. Do this with the front wheels off the ground. Before you bend the cotter pin over, move the handlebars fully from left to right. You should feel a little drag, but no binding. If you feel almost no drag at all, go a little tighter. If it feels at all if anything is binding, go a little looser. I know this is a PAIN in the rear, but I have gotten this far on the original bushing.
To make the brakes last longer, clean them up after any kind of mud ride. The mechanic at the dealership where I go to says 90% of all brake jobs he has to do are on machines that had mud packed in the brakes and left to dry there.
Kuderdan the clicking may be the brakes, the springs, or the front chain. Just because the brakes were new, doesn't mean they can't clatter. There is an adjustment bolt on the calipers that most mechanics don't mess with when doing brakes as they don't really effect pad life, just lever movement, and noise.
If it is the springs, squirting some WD-40 right at the top of the springs (there is a nylon bushing up there) will usually take the noise out of them.
If it is the chain, look for a bad link, or anyplace where the chain can rub. My Xplorer clicks in the back, and I had a devil of a time tracing it down. Turns out it is the master link just barely catching on the chain guard. Only the master catches as it is just a hair wider than the other links.