sparkys,

I was not questioning what work you have done. All I was saying is that I have not seen or heard of any front cv failures. You did mention somewhere that a front wheel may engage all by itself. I have seen this happen on two different machines. Both times the people were spinning donuts and in the middle of doing this one front wheel would engage for a second. Neither machine suffered any damage and has never done it sense. I couldn't offer a solid answer as to why this happened because everything in the hubs were where they were supposed to be.

As for manufactures changing designs, they all change their designs. Look at how many times things changed in the automotive industry. Within a ten year time period almost everything is changed. Think about the vehicles made ten years ago. Then think about the ones made ten years before that. Sometimes things are changed because of problems but most things are changed becuase they feel that they made a better design. Engineers have to do something to get paid the amount of money they do.

 

I have another question on this topic: where is the "1/5 turn before it engages" mechanism? Is it posible to remove this so the hubs are the only thing that have to engage to make the unit 4x4? I realize you would have to synchronize the gear ratios since the way it is set up now, the fronts turn 10% slower than the rears when all locked up. (1996 Scram 400 4x4) I would like to set up the unit so the fronts are spun about 1% faster than the rears to aid in steering (like most automotive 4x4's are) and the electric hubs only need to be engaged to put the unit into 4x4 mode....no slippage required. Is this do-able? Anyone done it?

 

You can rewire and bypass stuff to basically turn the hubs/4x4 into just an on/off type switch but why.

The front to rear proportion is there because the tires are of different sizes you could accomplish your one percent by changing tire sizes but then again except for wanting to personalize your bike why would you want to change that.

I think for about 98 percent of what most atv people want to do the 4x4 system works perfect when properly maintained and used correctly.

I would like to see all the electronics and fancy parts left off the bike, a spool in the front diff, a little shift lever to engage the front end, kinda like a truck, simple, loose alot of stuff that could have something go wrong with it then you can put the bike into all wheel drive or take it out, never any of the old 1/5 this and rpm that type of stuff.

 

I'm glad I finally got it explained that someone else could understand it.In am in no way putting down any Polaris bikes cause all bikes have flaws in certain places.I used to own a highly modified Wolverine that would stay up with a 500 Scrambler on the dirt roads, but I couldn't keep front brakes or universal joints in it.Also the starter wouldnt start it any more after adding a high comp. piston either. I had to use the electric starter and pull start in unison to start it.I am just giving my opinion of the Polaris AWD system from my experience working on them every day for a short time at the dealership I worked at.

 

<< I have another question on this topic: where is the &quot;1/5 turn before it engages&quot; mechanism? Is it posible to remove this so the hubs are the only thing that have to engage to make the unit 4x4? I realize you would have to synchronize the gear ratios since the way it is set up now, the fronts turn 10% slower than the rears when all locked up. (1996 Scram 400 4x4) I would like to set up the unit so the fronts are spun about 1% faster than the rears to aid in steering (like most automotive 4x4's are) and the electric hubs only need to be engaged to put the unit into 4x4 mode....no slippage required. Is this do-able? Anyone done it? >>



this &quot;mechanism&quot; IS the clutch, the 1/5 of a turn to get it to engauge is actually the rollers riding up the ramp, it takes about 1/5 of a wheel turn for the roller to reach the outer most part of the ramp, where the roller rides the highest is where it pushes out against the hub giving you 4wd.
if you take apart the hub and look at it, you think, &quot;how are these turning my tires&quot; cause the inside of the hub is perfectly smooth, meaning that there is no place where the roller lock onto on the hub.
confused yet???