If I remember correctly, I think that the gear indicator switch is on the shifter base itself (inside the base housing), not on the tranny, but I will look when I get home to be sure.

I did try to get spark again, this time with the CDI plugged in and the Neutral light positvly on- no spark [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img]- so it may not be the gear indicator switch.

This is getting frustrating- I also unplugged the white wire to the limiter box and nothing changed. Also the switch inside the throttle housing seems OK.

I was told to try shortening the coil wire at the spark plug boot where it plugs in ????????

 

Will it start & run if you disconnect the ground wire from the cdi unit? I noticed you said it had spark, but is it enough spark to run?
If it WILL run, I have a suggestion:
Unplug ALL the stuff on the circuit board that will kill it (neutral switch, kill switch, reverse switch, ETC control, etc).
Now hook the ground wire back up. Does it run now? If so, plug in one thing at a time until it dies, and note the wire color. Trace where the wire goes, and you should have your answer.
If it STILL won't run with the ground wire hooked up, but those things un-hooked, it has got to be a crossed/broken/shorted wire somewhere in the harness.
I think I listed the colors in earlier posts. If you need, I can look them up again, but I would have to get the book out. Yes, I am getting kind of lazy in my old age.

Good luck (again)

 

That is a good Idea.

I did get it running last night with the black CDI wire unplugged so I think your simple elimination test may do the trick. Do I need to unplug ALL the wires to each particular switch- or just one?

Even with spark (CDI unplugged) it was tough to get the old girl up and running as the carb is a little cobby from sitting up so long. It will crank now though and I will try what you mentioned above ASAP as I was almost out of options.

Thanks!

 

I would think you only have to unhook the wire that runs from the switch to the CDI unit.

Good luck, again.

I hope you get it running good, the best thing if it is cobby, is to get it going, and take it out! After you run a half tank or so of new gas thru it, it should be purring like a kitten.

 

Actually a kitten and the 335 have alot in common. After I got it running last night I took it for a short run around my house and this thing is kind of a slug!

Anyway, I will tear into it tonight and see what I can find.

I will let you know what happens.

Thanks!

 

Yes, the 335s are reliable, but slow
tough, but slow
they go about anywhere, but slowly
they ride nice, but are slow
they will do a surprising amount of work for their size, but they do it slowly.

I always wondered if you lined up the Diesel, and the 335 Sportsman, which one would be the winner. Don't know if you would need a stopwatch or sundial LOL.

Seriously, though, they have a fairly decent top speed (again for a 300cc class machine) but they take sooooo long to get there.
Farmr

 

Well Farmr123, I finally figured it out. I did the switch elimination test and determined it was the limiter. Luckily the dealer had one in stock- the 335 now functions as it should. (electrically anyway)

Do you think a new primary spring (white??) would give this pig a little more pep?

Thanks for ALL the help. I am really relieved its fixed!

 

Well, I can't say what changing the primary spring will do with the 335 engine, but here is my opinion on what it did on my 400 Xplorer.
First, it increases the clutch engagement RPM. Not a lot, but enough to tell. If you do a LOT, and I mean a LOT of rock-crawling, you might not like it. However, once you get used to the feel of the new engagement point, you will do as well or better than with the original 90%+ of the time.
Compared to the stock spring, the white has a stronger initial strength, but an equal compressed strength as the stocker did on my Xplorer (stock was blue/green). This means higher RPMs are required for initial engagement, and thru about the first half to 2/3 of the shift ratio, with the max shiftout occuring at about the same speed.
This allows the engine to rev out a little bit more, so it makes more horsepower at lower speeds. Top speed for me was unchanged, but in about 100 yards, I increased my speed (from a standing start) by almost 5 MPH! Not a HUGE difference, but surely enough to tell.
When I used to race my brother on his 400 Xpress 2wd, he would always get about 1 to 1 1/2 lengths ahead of me off the start (I assume due to it being lighter since it is a 2wd). Since I switched springs, I now jump about a half bike length ahead, and stay there, clear up to the very end, where he has about a half MPH more top speed than I do. Best $18 I spent in a while. Also, when hillclimbing, the engine revs a little higher, so it seems less likely to bog than it did. Wheelies are easier, too. Only drawback for me (since I don't rock-hop) is that now my 15 & 16 year old nephews can wheelie it, too. Gets me in trouble if their mother sees it [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
If it was me, for the half hour it takes to swap, I would sure try it. If your dealer will get you a spring on the condition you can return it if you don't like it, all you will be out is your time. I say GO FOR IT!

Farmr