I installed a HPD clutch kit yesterday and I thought all went well. At least I thought. It came with a red/yelow primary and a violet secondary spring. I did as instructed by the service manual when installing the primary spring(used a yellow spring from HPD instead of the red/yellow that came in the kit) and the weights supplied by HPD (made sure the x's lined up too). Then I installed the secondary spring and helix supplied by HPD(also had to change the buttons due to wear). I went through the install process on the secondary twice to make sure that I had wound it right(1/3 turn counterclockwise). I then put on the new kevlar belt. Then I took it out for a spin. It seemed to accelerate ok but with the clutch cover off, I could see that the belt wasn't being pulled down into the secondary sheaves like it should. Got any ideas? I do have other weights that are heavier but I used what came with the kit. Could this be a primary or secondary spring related issue? Give me some ideas people. Thanks

 

This is a guess so take it as one... I think the belt does not pull "down into the secondary sheaves" unless there is load. When you have the cover off are you driving around and putting load on the drive train? I have the same clutch kit. I'll take a look at it next time I have my clutch cover off. This is just a guess, I am not a pro at this.

P.S. Where did u buy that tach for your quad? Was it easy to install?

thanks

jondeer78

 

Bayou Blaster,there is a way to check your secondary to see if it's wound right,you can take a fish scale hook it on your secondary and pull,the sheaves should start to move at around 12 to 13lbs.What holes are you using?.I've been running the same spring in the secondary set on 2,2.Hope this helps.

 

I had the springs in the #2 position on both the helix and sheave. I changed it to the softest setting according to the service manual(1/3 maybe?) Don' actually remember, I'd have to check the maual again to see what I changed it to, but it does pull a lot better now with what seems like less hesitation. I didn't realize that the belt didn't get pulled down into the secondary sheaves unless it was under load. It is my understanding that the belt does not go down into the secondary sheaves until the belt is at the highest point on the primary sheaves at which point you are pretty close to halfway through the total mph scale for that particular quad. But there is more than type of load. Are you referring to a load which of the pulling nature or the load placed on the quad through acceleration or maybe some other type of load? I'm fairly new to this clutch tuning, so please bare with me.
I did do as Aaen suggested and put a tach on the quad for tuning purposes. It's a high priced $ one, but I think it will do till I get my testing and tuning done. Got it from Autozone for around $35 and it's pretty easy to install. Got a pic of the tach on the quad in my pics if they are still up. Need info on how to install one, just give me a holler and I'll send you exact directions. About 20 minutes to install(includes my trips to the frig) Thanks guys for the help!

 

the only reason I thought the belt went down into the secondary sheaves was when i watched my clutch with the cover off, that's when I saw how it worked. I am a novice at that too.

About the tach, Yes, I would like instructions. Do you know what model or part number or brand name you bought from Autozone?

thanks

 

With the belt "down in the secondary" it must be "up in the primary". This is the "shifted out" position, or high gear. If your belt is down in the seconday, you should be traveling far too fast to take your eyes off the road to look down. The secondary clutch is a "torque sensing" device. It allows upshift based on the load put behind it. IE: mud and hills=high load=stay in lower ratio or backshift further. Flat road and dry=low load=rapid upshift.
The primary clutch is "RPM sensing". It is designed to hold your engine at it's peak hp RPM while allowing the secondary to backshift it. Aaens clutch book does a first rate job of explaining CVT clutching.

 

Thanks for the info DaveB. I do now have Aaen's clutch manual and what you say does make sense. Thanks.
Jondeer78- The tach I bought is a Sunpro super tach II. It cost me around $35 or so. It has a switch on the back that lets you select 4 cylinder option. That's why it will work. Connect the green lead to the yellow with red stripe wire off the rev limiter switch located right behind the oil injection tank. The white one has to be spliced to run to each headlight(brown wire I think....could be wrong...have to check the service manual diagram) the black one has to be grounded and the red one has to be connected to the battery positive terminal. The is another wire you can connect the red woire to under the front cowling...A purple one I believe. I'll be able to tell you tomorrow for sure because I have to reroute the positive and negative wire(red and black). I now have them connected to the batteries pos and neg, but this afternoon I found out that my battery is dead(coincidence....maybe?) But I'm not gonna take a chance, so let me reroute my pos and neg and get them connected under the cowling and I'll let you know how I did it and send you some close up pics to. How's that? By the way , you also need to flatten out the bottom of the mounting bracket(it's curved) to mount it to the handle bar mounting bolts(also have to drill out the hole in the tach mounting bracket to accept the larger screws for the handle bar mounts. Once you have the tach mounted on it's bracket on the bike, just bend it slowly backwards until the view is to your liking. Hope this helps. I'll try to get the pics tomorrow and send them to ya provided they(employer) don't send me off into the Gulf of Mexico for a week or two tomorrow.