@#% CV boot problem
#1
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I have searched the entire forum reading about how others have done cv boot repairs and replacement. I have my 99' Xplorer 400 4x4 torn apart, clamps off, lower a-arm off, tie rod off, strut disassembled, and I still can't get the shaft out of the cv joint. I don't know what else to try. I've tried yanking, pulling, pounding... It slides so far, and then just stops. I'm almost ready to give up and call the dealer. Does anyone have any advice for me? I already have a brand new EPI boot, grease and clamps, and a cv pliers waiting to get this darn shaft out! I'm starting to get very frustrated with it. I just got done putting a new belt on, new boyseen power reeds and re-jetting the carb, and I just want to ride!!
Thanks for any advice!!!
Thanks for any advice!!!
#2
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Check out my post titled 'CV joint boot replacement' in the archives for all the details.
To sum it up, the axle is held in the joint by a spring-loaded snap ring. To pop them apart sometimes takes quite a bit of effort. To get mine apart, it took several hits with a soft-face hammer. You could also hit it with a hammer, using a piece of wood as a cushion. You don't want to smack it directly with a steel face hammer, as you can dent/distort it that way.
I had to hit it pretty hard with a 2 lb. soft face, so it really can be stuck in there tight.
Farmr
To sum it up, the axle is held in the joint by a spring-loaded snap ring. To pop them apart sometimes takes quite a bit of effort. To get mine apart, it took several hits with a soft-face hammer. You could also hit it with a hammer, using a piece of wood as a cushion. You don't want to smack it directly with a steel face hammer, as you can dent/distort it that way.
I had to hit it pretty hard with a 2 lb. soft face, so it really can be stuck in there tight.
Farmr
#3
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DitchDigger,
Keep at it. I was ready to give up on my wife's 500 4wd when replacing the cv boot a few weeks ago and I finally got it. Pull harder and it really will come off. That was what took the most time for me - everything else was simple.
I hope you got ahold of gorilla axle cv boots (lifetime warranty).
Good luck,
SnowDrift
Keep at it. I was ready to give up on my wife's 500 4wd when replacing the cv boot a few weeks ago and I finally got it. Pull harder and it really will come off. That was what took the most time for me - everything else was simple.
I hope you got ahold of gorilla axle cv boots (lifetime warranty).
Good luck,
SnowDrift
#4
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Finally got the SOB apart after way too much time!! I finally broke down and took the whole hub apart and then tapped the CV joint off the shaft by hitting it with a brass hammer. When I looked at the parts, I noticed that the circlip was in 6 pieces! I guess the circlip was too big, or defective causing all my troubles!!! So now I just need to get the darn new circlip from the dealer and I should be on the trail!! Any tricks to put the hub back together??[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-disgusted.gif[/img]
#5
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Keep everything CLEAN, keep your bearings in order as they were when you took them out, and make sure you get your clutch oriented the right way. Be sure not to damage the coil that goes around it.
Invest in a service manual - it will save you loads of time and aggravation.
Get the one from Polaris, not Clymer.
SnowDrift
Invest in a service manual - it will save you loads of time and aggravation.
Get the one from Polaris, not Clymer.
SnowDrift
#6
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I haven't read all the replys but ALL CV joint half shafts work pretty much like this. 1. remove the wheel. 2. break and remove the nut on the outside end of the half shaft. 3.use a gear puller if the outer drive hub doesn't come free with a pull. 4. break free as many ball joints as nessessary to get the spindle to clear the half shaft, sometimes that's one ball joint, but more often both or tie rod too( be carefull of not stressing the brake line when you get the spindle loose ) 4. find something to pry the halfshaft from the diff/gearbox. 5. yank, pry and wiggle at the same time, to get the snap clip to let loose from the diff/gearbox. 6 remove clamps on the old boots, many type of clamps can be used a couple times before they're too weak. 7. slide the INSIDE boot clear of the CV outer race. 8. find and remove the snap ring burried in the grease of the inside CV. 9. pull CV bearings loose from outer race and use snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring from the end of the shaft, slide the CV bearings off the shaft. 10. remove/ replace boots as needed.
superfast reassemble: boots and clamps ready, replace bearings and snap ring, insert bearing into CV outer race, install that snap, pack with grease, position boots, tighten clamps, insert in diff, replace spindle(make sure all lines are routed properly before tightening ball joints), replace and tighten hub, clean brakes(if contaminated), install wheel.
superfast reassemble: boots and clamps ready, replace bearings and snap ring, insert bearing into CV outer race, install that snap, pack with grease, position boots, tighten clamps, insert in diff, replace spindle(make sure all lines are routed properly before tightening ball joints), replace and tighten hub, clean brakes(if contaminated), install wheel.
#7
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Well the dealer didn't have the circlip on-hand. Not only that, but they had never ordered one before! So after 4 days and $1.25 later I had the part I needed and re-assembly was a snap. Still don't know what made the clip break into pieces like that, but I don't recommend it. The EPI CV-Boot was a perfect fit!
Thanks for all the tips and pointers!
Thanks for all the tips and pointers!
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