"Newer, more expensive technology is not available to all production engines, this is why the conventional oil is tried and true in break ins for the majority of engines out there..... even Redline will say this, and so will other big name synthetic players out there. "

YES the same"newer more expensive technology" is used on less expensive vehicles. The reason coventional oil is used in the these vehicles is because it is very expensive for an auto company to put synthetic oil in their vehicles. You will see more and more vehicles coming from the factory with synthetic oils now as manufacturers are faced with providing longer warranties on their vehicles.

I personally would stick with the manufacturers recommended method of breaking in and type of oil. I got a strong feeling that Polaris and Fuji have a pretty good idea on how the motor was designed and how it should be serviced.

 

In the article by Redline they concur that an engine should be broke in with mineral oil:

"Redline, on the other hand, has found it best to recommend a mineral oil break-in. "

And again in the Tom Wilson article speaking of Mobil 1:
approximately 1000 miles on mineral oil should prove ample break-in time.

What I find is interesting as well is this statement:
"Redline further noted a caution when using synthetics with leaded fuels, as synthetics do not hold lead in suspension as well as mineral oil. "

Now to add a fly in the ointment....... What about C-12? Not good to run with synthetic's?

 

Dang, I'm afraid I opened a can of something that will never end.

Scrambler, I wish I could just flat out agree with you that newer cars/trucks that have this "newer technology" can and will begin coming with synthetics from the factory, but I just don't know. It's contrary to what is happening now and has been going on since day one.

If it happens because it works better in these newly designed engines, great, I'll support it just like I'm supporting the opposite now because I know it works. You see, I'm all for whatever is best overall.

Again, back to square one. Polaris, from what I've been told, is supplying you with the Predator with conventional oil. Now, after one hour's time, or a tank of gas, they ask you to switch to PS-4 (or relative oil). Does that mean you have to run 100% synthetic? No, not really. Does it mean at this first oil change interval your engine is completely broken in, ring wise or otherwise? No, not really. So, what I'm saying is, why not run the mineral oil a little longer than switch over??

That's all.

Also, I would never say Polaris/Fuji know little about their engines. I'm sure they know a lot about it. But when it comes to preference and proper break in, the owner has his own best interest in mind, not the masses of people that will own these, which Polaris/Fuji addresses in their manuals. I take EXTRA care of my stuff and make sure I do whatever I can to prolong the durability and performance of my equip....

Tres: What is C-12 again? Thanks for the quotes also....

 

Please read carefully the reply I got from Ed Kellerman with Amsoil. I had asked simply when they recommended to start using their motor oils and have much run in time was required or if it was required. Note the reasons for using a cheaper oil have NOTHING to do with the synthetic vs conventional oil argument you have given so far.
Amsoil is what your switching to, right?


"Denny,

Actually you can use our oil right away. It is recommended however to operate the engine up to its first normal drain interval with a petroleum motor oil. There are a couple primary reasons for this recommendation.

1.New engines or engine components generate high wear metals to begin with and generally contain debris from machining and assembly. It is more beneficial to allow these wear metals to collect in an inexpensive motor oil than to circulate throughout the crankcase for extended periods in a synthetic motor oil. By operating the vehicle to its first drain interval with a petroleum oil, these wear metals and manufacturing debris collect in the oil and are then flushed out of the crankcase when drained. This allows for a much cleaner operating environment for the synthetic lubricant.
2. Within the first miles of operation, if there are any defects in the assembly or workmanship of the engine components, then they may be corrected before installing the more expensive synthetic motor oil. Occasionally, rebuilt engines may have re-machined components or materials which can sometimes be mismatched. These problems will develop in a fairly short period of time. If excessive oil consumption or any other problem is noted, this should be corrected prior to changing to AMSOIL Synthetic Oil

Thanks,
Ed"
Link to Amsoil





C-12 is a leaded race fuel, made by VP

 

truck:

Ed did not speak about the rings breaking in, which we all know is crucial. So, there is time that conventional oil should be used.

I'm aware of their ideas on having a clean foundation to start off. They've always recommended using their engine power flush stuff before switching over to their synthetics, to get all the garbage out from the conventionals..... if you've used conventionals for a long period of time. Makes perfect sense. It even makes sense to waste money on cheaper conventional to suck up all the engine debris and metal particles... then switch to synthetics after this process is done. The process is called break-in. Again, the point will always be, breaking in an engine is important. As long as I'm using this so called "older technology", I'm sticking with the use of conventionals then over to synthetics... once broke in... There's nothing complicated about it.....

There really is no new information there. I'm assuming he's not saying you can run synthetic from the moment you first run the engine, because we all know this to be bad for seating the rings and allowing the rings to mold themselves to the cylinder, well that's what I've read everywhere......

Don't the rings need to break in?? I highly doubt Amsoil will deny this. They know synthetics will not allow the rings to seat properly as well as mineral oil will...

Thanks for the info on the C-12...