Clutch alignment????? tools needed????
#1
I am in the process of putting my 01 scrambler back together..... I am to the point of bolting my tranny back in... Do I absolutely positively need to use the "clutch aliggnment tools"...or can I just bolt it in???
maybe minor frame damage???If it is out of adjustment It doesn't seem like there would be a whole lot of adjustment????
Mod quad you out there???(take you up on your offer)
I am sooooooo tempted to just bolt it up and go go go......
What are your thoughts/expieriences??????
Thanks
LoCo as a ****
maybe minor frame damage???If it is out of adjustment It doesn't seem like there would be a whole lot of adjustment????
Mod quad you out there???(take you up on your offer)
I am sooooooo tempted to just bolt it up and go go go......
What are your thoughts/expieriences??????
Thanks
LoCo as a ****
#3
Yes, very important.
About 25 percent of belt problems I see are due to misalignment.
Another 70% or so is improper use/abuse of the belt drive system.
The other 5% are actual design flaws, weakensses, or due to wear.
About 25 percent of belt problems I see are due to misalignment.
Another 70% or so is improper use/abuse of the belt drive system.
The other 5% are actual design flaws, weakensses, or due to wear.
#4
Once he bolts it up,
Couldent he
start it up(just to get the belt to turn)
then he can look at where the belt rides on the drive clutch.
If it's bunching up you can
adjust the mounts, or
add or remove washers
If its riding on the back add a washer to the driven
If its riding up front remove a washer to the driven
Remember ,you always have to have 1 washer in.
So if you canyt remove a washer,you have to adjust the mounts.
Couldent he
start it up(just to get the belt to turn)
then he can look at where the belt rides on the drive clutch.
If it's bunching up you can
adjust the mounts, or
add or remove washers
If its riding on the back add a washer to the driven
If its riding up front remove a washer to the driven
Remember ,you always have to have 1 washer in.
So if you canyt remove a washer,you have to adjust the mounts.
#5
Do you have to have a clutch alignment after putting in a clutch kit? I just put in a HPD aggressive clutch kit and it came with a spacer and washer. I think the washer is for the primary. Do I use the spacer for the secondary? Do I need to use it? It seemed to run fine befor the clutch kit so I dont think the clutch was misaligned. Thanks
#6
Originally posted by: Farmr123
Yes, very important.
Another 70% or so is improper use/abuse of the belt drive system.
The other 5% are actual design flaws, weakensses, or due to wear.
Yes, very important.
Another 70% or so is improper use/abuse of the belt drive system.
The other 5% are actual design flaws, weakensses, or due to wear.
#7
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img] Yo loco, The tranny should bolt in period. The clutch alignment comes into play after inner cover is mounted. Offset is 5/8" from back side of front clutch to back side of rear clutch. The leading edge of rear clutch can be + 1/8" gap. Clutch alignment is very important to belt life and proper working of the clutches. There are after-market co's that make tools. They are a template that lays over the front clutch.
You mentioned ? minor frame damage...I believe you should confirm that question. The way to align crank to tranny shaft is to shim the engine at the mounts.
You mentioned ? minor frame damage...I believe you should confirm that question. The way to align crank to tranny shaft is to shim the engine at the mounts.
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#8
Improper use includes, but is not restricted to: any kind of riding with low speeds when in Hi range. The bikes without low range weren't intended for towing or loading down heavily (for example the scramblers have no racks or hitch) so that is improper use.
Basically, anytime the engine is trying to spin the wheels, and the wheels aren't spinning, the belt is being heated up in only one spot. Do this long enough, and you have a burnt belt. A beginning rider trying to ease it over a log isn't going to be nearly as rough on it as the person who buries it in a sticky mudhole at 2/3 throttle w/o the wheels turning.
Back to the original question, the pulleys MUST be aligned anytime you have either the engine or transmission out of the frame. Not just aligned so that the pulleys aren't offset from each other
(the grooves in the pulleys would be like this with bad offset)
|
|
but also, so they are paralell with each other (example of the grooves having proper offset but not paralell)
\
/
Notice how, even though on the second example, the pulleys are pointing at each other, but the grooves are not 'in line' That is just as bad as being offset. When you remove either the engine or tranny from the frame, you risk putting it in slightly 'cockeyed' from the proper placement. The alignment tool checks both the offset and paralell. Keep in mind that the pulleys will start out a tiny amount of pointing out, away from each other (the front one anyway). This is to compensate for the flex that is allowed due to the rubber engine mounts.
Basically, anytime the engine is trying to spin the wheels, and the wheels aren't spinning, the belt is being heated up in only one spot. Do this long enough, and you have a burnt belt. A beginning rider trying to ease it over a log isn't going to be nearly as rough on it as the person who buries it in a sticky mudhole at 2/3 throttle w/o the wheels turning.
Back to the original question, the pulleys MUST be aligned anytime you have either the engine or transmission out of the frame. Not just aligned so that the pulleys aren't offset from each other
(the grooves in the pulleys would be like this with bad offset)
|
|
but also, so they are paralell with each other (example of the grooves having proper offset but not paralell)
\
/
Notice how, even though on the second example, the pulleys are pointing at each other, but the grooves are not 'in line' That is just as bad as being offset. When you remove either the engine or tranny from the frame, you risk putting it in slightly 'cockeyed' from the proper placement. The alignment tool checks both the offset and paralell. Keep in mind that the pulleys will start out a tiny amount of pointing out, away from each other (the front one anyway). This is to compensate for the flex that is allowed due to the rubber engine mounts.
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