I have a 2001 sp 500. I am getting some creep after letting off the gas. Some people on this forum said I should take off the rear drive clutch(plate) don't really know the real name. Then add washers to whatever side the belt is rubbing on. I have the tech book on my bike and it says not to take off the rear drive by using the exposed bolt and lock washer on the outside. But to somehow turn the inside plate counterclockwise and that is supposed to somehow make the plates to come off. Does anybody have any hints on what is the easiest way to get the rear clutch(plates) off.

Thanks for any help.

 

I would have to disagree with that, If your creeping then you have one of 4 problems as listed in my Polaris Manual, a) Idle speed too high b)incorrect belt or belt length c) Incorrect drive center distance d) Idler bearing seized. I know of one person very recently that had the same problem and the bearing was the cause.

 

First off what are you riding? Then check the idle.If it is too high it will creep.But if the quad is older the front clutch my not be releasing all the way aka the bushings hanging a little.Meaning it is time for a clutch rebuild.No biggie take it off and take it to a reputable dealer and it shouldnt run more than $50.

 

It's the EBS on the front clutch. Your belt is riding on top of the EBS causing the belt to stay tight an not free wheel. Check the bushings on both sides of the EBS they wear out causing it to move outward. There is a upgrade on this.

 

how do you know he has EBS?

 

bdog has ebs because he has a 2001 sp 500, as he stated in his original post.

 

2001 Sportsmans 500 are H O's and have EBS.

 

I am sure it is not the idle. I set the idle to were the bike was almost dieing and there was still creep. The bike only has about 900 miles on it. The belt still looks like it is in good shape. I am pretty sure it has something to do with the alignment of front clutch or the back plates. I removed the belt cover and was watching what it was doing when it would creep. The belt is not laying in the middle of the front clutch. It is rubbing on the right side after the gas is released. This is why I was thinking it is the alignment of the rear plates. If I could put a washer to move the rear plate out about an 1/8" then the belt would rest in the middle of the front clutch. My problem is that I do not know how to remove the rear plates.

 

My son's 02' 500 h.o was creeping and we removed the rear clutch by removing the bolt that holds it on. We than added a washer or two that we picked up at the local hardware store so that the belt was rideing in the center of the pulley. We havn't had any problems with it since. My sp 700 started to creep after I flipped it over and it rolled down a hill several times. Since it was an inurance claim, the dealer re- alighned the engine, which also alighne's the front clutch pulley. You do this by loosening the motor mounts and slideing the front of the engine to the right or left, until the belt is in the center of the pulley. Their is a way to measure the engine alighnment but I'm not positive how you do it. If the pulleys are not way out of alighnment, it is easier to add or remove the washers. Your local dealer should have the washers or he can order them.

 

Here are my .02 on this. Clutch alignment is a very close thing. Did you check the center to center distance I recommended in my first post? If you didn't you need to do that first. It should be as close to 10" as you can possibly get it from the center of the front shaft(or bolt) to the second shaft(or bolt) If this is off, it doesn't matter how many washers you add to the secondary, you will ruin your clutches in time. If that measurement is correct, then you need a clutch alignment bar to aid in setting the offset of the secondary(rear) clutch to the primary(front) clutch. The proper terms for the clutches are Drive clutch for the front and Driven clutch for the back. Anyway, there is only supposed to be 1/8" offset between these two clutches for them to function properly and without an alignment bar it is impossible to get this. Here is a good article on what you are experiencing, It is related to snowmobiles here, but the same applies to the atv clutches. Belt Squeeze You may possibly luck up and get correct shims to fix the problem, but in my opinion it is not worth the risk to guess at this because new clutches for your machine would cost, $340.00 for the drive clutch and $330.00 for the driven clutch. IMO if you do not have an alignment bar or do not want to purchase one, then I would put everything back together and take it to your Polaris service dept. and get it fixed. The rear or driven clutch normally will just pull off, but if it is stuck on there a special puller would be needed. Hope this helps and these are just my own opinions. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]