Want to see a real banshee killer try a modded 400 Polaris Sport .No kidding guys these things are hot.Ask Bubba267 about them.

 

A guy here in the mich/ohio/indy area has a nice one too. Cant remember his name right now, i think his wife rides it though. Nice machine and really fast. GregV and RhondaV i think...

 

Well isn't that special, there are some 2 strokes over here that rape all the 4 strokes.

 

for all yalls goin after ridley...i wouldnt mess with him...he knows his $h!t...and i dont think i would trust any info from anyone on here more than him...from reading all his posts i can very well tell he is well informed with quads of all types...dont mess with the ridler...

 

LOL!

 

Ridly, just wanting your opinion on something.........Which do you think is better, boring the original cylinder and nikasil plating it again, or sleeving it with cast iron???? Will the cast iron dissipate the heat better than the nikasil? Also, the YFZ ti valves, Ive replaced them in my 250f once or twice at $90.00 a peice!!! Would forged steel valves work better?

 

Not trying to test you at all, only curious, weird thing is the 426f's 450f's and 400f's always had very good valve lifed, but the 250f's seemed to eat them up, not only mine but alot of my racing friends!!!! Heres my take on Plating and head dissapation issue, probly just rewriting what you wrote in a different way so bear with me ridler!


There are several types of plating. The common types include electro fusion plating, Nikasil (Nickel silicon carbide), boron composite and ceramic composite. These types of plating are done directly on the aluminum bore of your cylinder. Thickness is usually around 1mm or so thereby eliminating the need for a cast iron liner or sleeve. This also prohibits the cylinder from being 'bored up' to an oversize.

A 'sleeve' is a centrifugally cast iron alloy which, when installed properly, retains the engines original performance. Cast iron has lubricating properties that plating does not which allows for a more uniform wearing of the cylinder and piston TOGETHER. In addition, a sleeve can be bored and honed up to an oversize at a huge savings compared to replating each and every time your cylinder fails.

Also- plating is VERY hard. If you read your owners manual, most 2-stroke plated cylinders require re-ringing very 7-10 hours of use! Plating is so hard, that it needs to be fed a good diet of rings and pistons to ensure long life. If you have a large budget, plating may be your choice. Another factor you may also want to consider is that I have found that nobody plates it like the factory! Currently, in Europe, there are some awesome plating companies which seem to have it down to an exacting science while here in the U.S. we haven't seen too many shops who have what it takes to 'get it right'. Matching and blueprinting a plated bore is almost impossible due to it's hardness. Plated bores make up for this by being 'slick', thereby creating less friction between the piston and cylinder wall.

So... plating and sleeving can be comparable depending on the quality of the work. As for the heat dissapation, my opinion on that is while it is true that aluminum dissipates heat faster than cast iron, I have yet to find a situation where a sleeve overheats where a plated bore would not. For purposes, this is just a marketing tactic to promote the plating process. Cast iron sleeves have been used in hundreds of thousands of motors since the concept began with no temperature related problems.

It is possible that in a rare circumstance where heat dissipation is crucial, a sleeve may not work. I have yet to see such a motor in the hands of any of the people I race with. In addition, recently, plating has allowed cylinders to be placed very close together for in-line cylinder applications on street bikes and such. A sleeve does not work in this instance because there is no room to bore a hole and install the sleeve. Just my two cents!!!!! Not as "technical" as you Rid, but I'm trying!!!! It definately pays off in the end to know about your machine cuz it definately saves you ALOT of money!!!!!

 

Hey Rid I went back and edited my post, tell me what ya think! As far as the 250f, mine was due to a poor adjustment on my part!!!! Since I have had no problems, my friends seem to have theirs dialed in as well, but they seem to eat them up!!!!!! Its been a real bad problem with them!!! The newer bikes seemed to have it solved but the 01 and 02 seem to have the bug!!!

 

Also, I use C12 in all my modified bikes but 100 in the stock 450!

 

How reliable is that total seal ring? I'm gonna definately look into that!!!