Don't second guess the engineers who designed your engine, just read the themrometer outside and go to your owner's manual find the chart and run what they spec! Lots of manufacturers are tightening their tolerances, and that is why the heavy oils are increasingly no longer being called for!!! Since 05, Honda for example has not specd anything heavier than 10W40, and my Rancher 420 specs 0W30 as a possible year round, all temperature choice!

And if you want an oil that will cling to moving parts when the engine is off, you need to get one that is ESTER based, not some thick goo that your oil pump isn't intended to handle! Ester molecules are polar and charged, and will stick to metal like little magnets. This means that there will be a film of oil left there for a cold start, not to mention the advantages it will give you on your red hot cylinder wall!!!

 

now how often would u have to change the oil of a raptor700 or ltz400? or polaris 525 or similar? not as much as the 450s right

 

The 525 is a long stroke thumper, but very high output... high maintenance, but easier valve adjustments.

The Raptor 700 should go a little longer, but it's a big stroker, so not too far.

Not sure on the LTZ400... it's DOHC, but should go a little longer.



Myself, I look more at what kind of pain is involved in maintenance along with interval. The oil change is real easy on the Kawi... Not so on my 400EX. The valve adjustment is real easy on the 400EX... Kawi is bucket and shim... but seems to go a long time between adjustments.

 

no how many times do you need to adjust the valves for your kawi? i dont know how to do that

 

On my TRX450 I adjusted the valves 1.5 years ago and checked them a few months ago and they were still perfect.

 

Does not even seem to be anything to consider.

From what I know to this point the Kawi valves are not turning out to be high maintenance.

 

so how long have u had your kawi? would you think the valve adjustment is a once a year type of thing? cause i think thats something i would send to the dealers-the oil change i can do myself(it would be dumb to send it to the dealer every 5hrs just for an oil change)

 

Well, a lot of dealers have a "service package" you can get cheap when buying which covers the valve adjustments.

Once a year should do it fine... probably less often from what I have gathered so far.
People with the KFX and KX are going a long time.

Most say they just run it until it gets to be a stubborn starter when hot.

The service chart in the manual is about useless because it cites miles... but just so you get an idea... it calls for them to have their first inspection at 1,700 miles and every 2,200 after that.

 

Who makes real synthetics anymore?
I really don't know.

If it's $11-12 dollars a quart, I think I will pass unless it gives me extended drains. If not, it's kind of hard to see when stuff like Rotella goes for that a gallon. I believe a person could save enough for a rebuild in oil price savings by the time it wears out on the dino juice... ya know?

Like I said though, my manual specs 20w50 above zero.

 

Well, Rotella sure isn't a "real" synthetic! It is Group III and the bottom of the barrel when it comes to synthetic oil chemistry. All it has going for it is a cheapo price, because it is made from a by-product of oil refining. Group IV PAO is better, and Group V ester is better yet:

http://www.maximausa.com/technical/l...beNews2002.pdf

Actually, PAO and ester compliment each other in many ways. So...the best oils will be ester based, with some PAO for "balance". Amsoil is mostly PAO, with a little added ester, but not enough for my taste. Redline and Maxima Extra/Ultra/530MX are polyol-ester based, with a little PAO thrown in. (Mobil 1 use to be PAO, but has now gone Group III, so no thanks on that one.)

As for price, with oil you will never get anything you are not willing to pay for, so yes expect to pay more for the best. People spend hours in here researching the best rims or tires or handlebars or whatever, and consider it a mater of pride that they are making the best well thought out selection they can possibley make. Then they go and put cheapo crap oil in their engine and think that's just wonderful way to save a couple dollars......

A couple good oil reads:

http://www.thumperfaq.com/oil.htm

http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0308_oil/index.html