LT500 Base Gasket problem
#1
Hi
I have a lt500 (87) and my buddy has a 90 lt500. the problem we have is the base gasket blows on his every year. mine is ok for three years now. anyway, what i want to know is, i think i read here somewhere that someone makes a steel gasket that is reusable. has anyone heard of this, and if so, who makes it? we have tried the gasket sealer, we even tried just using the stuff for the case half's. we have tried stock and aftermarket gasket w/no luck. anyhelp would be appreciated.
thanks
aaron
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-disgusted.gif[/img]
I have a lt500 (87) and my buddy has a 90 lt500. the problem we have is the base gasket blows on his every year. mine is ok for three years now. anyway, what i want to know is, i think i read here somewhere that someone makes a steel gasket that is reusable. has anyone heard of this, and if so, who makes it? we have tried the gasket sealer, we even tried just using the stuff for the case half's. we have tried stock and aftermarket gasket w/no luck. anyhelp would be appreciated.
thanks
aaron
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-disgusted.gif[/img]
#3
Yep! Tudors perf.
The base gasket is spring steel and works great (Still need to use sealer)
The copper head gasket is not a good option... unless you've got an absolutely flat (freshly machined) head and deck.
The base gasket is spring steel and works great (Still need to use sealer)
The copper head gasket is not a good option... unless you've got an absolutely flat (freshly machined) head and deck.
#4
Yeah the base gasket blowing is a common problem on these. I have changed mine out 4 times this year now... I have also called Tudor's and am getting one of their gaskets for when I get mine all back together again.
#5
This is a common source of trouble on LT500's as your bike ages the cylinder base and case mating surfaces warp. The area under the reed cage/ intake port is the most susceptible to warping as the gasket surface is only about 6mm wide. In severe cases you may need to have the surfaces re-machined. However, I suggest you remove the cylinder, clean the gasket surfaces thoroughly, then inspect the surfaces for burrs or nicks. (Only the narrow area at the intake port is of real importance, you need not be too concerned about burs on the wider areas unless they are large.) If the intake port area is damaged, lightly deburr the area with a fine grade of emery paper. Remember, this surface is aluminum and can be easily damaged beyond repair! When you reassemble the cylinder use a high grade liquid gasket adhesive on the intake area going about 10mm into the wider surface near the base studs. First apply a small amount to the engine case, wait a few minutes, then fit the base gasket. Apply another small amount to the top side of the gasket and refit the cylinder.DO NOT APPLY ADHESIVE TO THE ENTIRE GASKET, YOU WILL HAVE A BITCH REMOVING IT AGAIN! This should fix your problem or at the least give you better gasket life.
#6
Yeah here are some pics from a Quadzilla rebuild link that shows them putting the adhesive on the base----->Quadzilla Reborn
Hope this helps
later
Superstar
Hope this helps
later
Superstar
#7
WHOOPS That link doesn't work but this one should. Quadzilla Reborn. The pics are in the "Fire In The Monster" part 2, on page 2 and towards the bottom.
later
Superstar
later
Superstar
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#8
I have worked on many lt's with blown head gaskets and half the time it is because the dowel pins are missing. Someone takes the cyl. off to have it bored, the machine shop removes the pins to bore it and doesn't put them back. Most people would never notice, but they are there for a reason and without them the cyl. is free to move. From the link above it looks like there is only one dowel. or maybe I just can't see the other
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