Thanks for all the feedback on my other questions, heres a few more for you to mull over.
1.Stator cover, same or different for the 250 and 500?
2. Rear axel bearings, I have a little bit of play from side to side if i grab the rear tires, im thinking its the axel bearings, a tough install?
3. I had asked before about cleaning the power valve and was told to pull the top end, can this be done with the engine still in the quad? I hope so
4. I have a small amount of play at the top of the steering stem, does the clamp loking thing that bolts around it, and also drops down to hold the radiator, does that piece loose its grip of the top of the stem and allow play? is there bearings?
5. I have the FMF fatty pipe, right after start up, i get a little smoke from the joining sections, and its dark there, I plan on pulling the pipe off and polishing, is there a way to get a leak proof seal ?
6.CArb rebuilding, My Lt requires shut off of the fuel at the valve if im gonna shut the bike off, floats all gunked up? common?

Hope thats it for now, i have a few other things, i need to repack the silencer, probably all clogged, and im going to get rid of all teh stickers all over it and try the plastic renew stuff, good results? dont expect anything?

Thanks again in advance guys

PS , after looking closer , i dont think the oil is coming from inside the stator case, still possible, wont know until i pull it, could be the massive amount of chain lube my buddy dumped on, could be a leak at the shaft going into the trans? any ideas? Is the trans input shaft re-sealable ?

 

i dont see how u can get oil in your stator cover i blew a seal there and it sucked mad air and stayed at constant high rev

 

3. I had asked before about cleaning the power valve and was told to pull the top end, can this be done with the engine still in the quad? I hope so

Yes, you can pull the cylinder off with the engine staying put. Important to have the power valve clean and freely moving. Don't use BelRay oil it'll gunk the valve right up in a couple of tanks of gas. I use Yamalube 2R with no problems, and there are many good oils out there.

 

1. Not sure but don't think so
2. Check swing arm pivot also/ not to bad if your good with a wrench
3. You don't have to pull the top end to clean the power valve/ I wouldn't pull the jug with the engine in the frame but it can be done.
4. No bearings, just a plastic bushing, I have actually removed these and filed them down to tighten them up. don't file the set pins off the bushing though, just file one side of each bushing( the side that doesn't have the two plastic pins).
5. Yes. High temp red RTV silicone from permatex. Apply it to both mating surfaces of all connecting points, bolt it all in place and wipe the excess with a rag.
6. They all do this. may need new needle/seat and float adjustment. may just need needle/seat cleaned. I had grass in mine one time( no clue how it got there ( by needle/seat I mean the need valve connected to the floats with the little spring and the brass seat pressed into the carb above the needle)


Shift shaft seal is very easy to change and only cost a few bucks. So if you suspect a leak just change it. A bad crank seal can cause a little oil(burnt looking 2 stroke oil) inside the stator cover but I don't think you could mistake it for an oil leak. A very common oil leak for LTs is the output shaft. If your sprocket looks like its self oiling(LOL, always covered in oil) than it leaks. Clean your chain really good with brake parts cleaner and ride it, if their is oil on the front sprocket than it leaks.

 

6. My '87 has done this since I bought it. Very common in 2-strokes. I have to turn off the gas before I shut the bike off, or it will leak all over out of the overflow on the carb.

 

My answers are based on the LT500 and I am assuming that the 250 is put together the same.

1) A leak under the stator cover can also come from a bad counter balancer bearing and/or seal.

2) Check for play at both ends of the swingarm.

3) The cylinder has to come off to thoroughly clean/inspect the powervalve. Suzuki stupidly put the set-screw that holds the powervalve in under the cylinder. You can half-azz the job by simply spraying carb cleaner at the valve through the exhaust manifold and work the valve back and forth.

4) It is a bushing that you can file (as already explained) or you can buy new. There are also two seals and grease in between.

5) High-temp silicone and you will have no leak what-so-ever.

6) I just stay in the habit of shutting off the fuel. You can replace every part available for that carb and may still experience the problem. Even if you get the problem solved for now, it is very likely to crop up again in the near future.