Eiger killing
#22
So I recently bought a Suzuki Eiger 06 semi auto with only 800 miles on it. I put about 100-150 miles on it then I went to take on Wednesday after riding it on the previous Saturday. It wouldn't start so i looked into the air filter it was filled with gas so I drained the gas out of the air filter and it started to run but like crap. I then ripped apart the carb and cleaned the crab out of it. Now it started to bog down as soon as i hit the gas,so i then went back and realized the rubber boot from motor to carb wasn't on fully. I then tighten it and still the same problem. I don't know what it could be and now it will start in neutral but then die out. Any help would be greatly appreciated! I am new too quads and only 19 but i know the basic stuff from owning dirt bikes but I am extremely puzzled on why it won't keep running. It ran great on Saturday except for the fact the fan kept coming on but i figured thats normal from motor getting hot from riding.
#23
This is a pretty common problem with Eigers. .
If you haven't already done so pull the dipstick and give it a good sniff. If it has gas in it I would say the petcock might be bad and you need to change the oil. But before you rip out your petcock check your float valve.
If your float valve isn't seating properly then you will get fuel pouring into the vent line and into the airbox as well, certainly if your Eiger has sat for a while. Gently remove the float and check the float valve. If you see the slightest circular indention replace it.
In fact I would suggest if you haven't already done so I'd swap it out and polish the seat at the same time. Take some white toothpast or brass cleaner and a q-tip, chuck the q-tip into a drill add a small dab of toothpaste and set it into the seat and let it rip for 15-20 seconds, then clean with a clean q-tip. Repeat until very shiny, if you see any divots or unpolished area do it again. Flush out the hole with carb cleaner, then install new float valve.
You can check the float by attaching a clean piece of tubing to the gas -in port and while you have the carb in your hand with the float pointing upward gently blow. When you blow slowly tilt the cab then when the float closes the airflow should stop.
After you polish the seat and install the valve the air flow will cease immediatly once the float closes. If not you still have a seat problem and a new carb body may be required as the seat isn't replaceable. You may find someone who can recut the seat and make/provide a custom valve for less. Generally a quick polish will work.
If you haven't already done so pull the dipstick and give it a good sniff. If it has gas in it I would say the petcock might be bad and you need to change the oil. But before you rip out your petcock check your float valve.
If your float valve isn't seating properly then you will get fuel pouring into the vent line and into the airbox as well, certainly if your Eiger has sat for a while. Gently remove the float and check the float valve. If you see the slightest circular indention replace it.
In fact I would suggest if you haven't already done so I'd swap it out and polish the seat at the same time. Take some white toothpast or brass cleaner and a q-tip, chuck the q-tip into a drill add a small dab of toothpaste and set it into the seat and let it rip for 15-20 seconds, then clean with a clean q-tip. Repeat until very shiny, if you see any divots or unpolished area do it again. Flush out the hole with carb cleaner, then install new float valve.
You can check the float by attaching a clean piece of tubing to the gas -in port and while you have the carb in your hand with the float pointing upward gently blow. When you blow slowly tilt the cab then when the float closes the airflow should stop.
After you polish the seat and install the valve the air flow will cease immediatly once the float closes. If not you still have a seat problem and a new carb body may be required as the seat isn't replaceable. You may find someone who can recut the seat and make/provide a custom valve for less. Generally a quick polish will work.
#24
I read somewhere online that the Eiger 122 main jet just doesn't do the trick so I ordered a 128 main jet and am going to install when it comes in but since the carb is already off the quad sitting in the garage. I will deff do what you suggest and hopefully it will be up and running by this weekend/early week next week. Whenever the part comes in! Thank you for your help and i will let you know if this works or not
#25
128 will help if you don't have any mods ie exhaust or snorkel . I have a 130 in mine but plan on opening up the air box, right now it smoke a bit. With any of the above mods a 135 and up will work.
If you want I'd do the slide mod. It will open up the throttle response drastically, just be aware it will take some getting used to and will seem punchy at first. All you do is pull the
black plastic slide off and with an 1/8"drill bit drill out the off centered hole. Clean the burr ans reassemble.
My Eiger had multiple problems bad petcock, dirt in carb from petcock screens missing, bad float valve, dirty seat... I searched for weeks and found what I could. The worst was there was little info out there on these.
I replaced the petcock with one from a Yamaha banshee 660. No more vacuum problems and cost 1/3 what the OEM did. Plus the dealer had it on the shelf.
Good luck keep us posted.
If you want I'd do the slide mod. It will open up the throttle response drastically, just be aware it will take some getting used to and will seem punchy at first. All you do is pull the
black plastic slide off and with an 1/8"drill bit drill out the off centered hole. Clean the burr ans reassemble.
My Eiger had multiple problems bad petcock, dirt in carb from petcock screens missing, bad float valve, dirty seat... I searched for weeks and found what I could. The worst was there was little info out there on these.
I replaced the petcock with one from a Yamaha banshee 660. No more vacuum problems and cost 1/3 what the OEM did. Plus the dealer had it on the shelf.
Good luck keep us posted.
#26
So I finally got the part. It is a 130 jet though. I put it in yesterday and the quad started right up and stayed running, so i was pretty amped!
Before putting it all back together i went to take it for a ride and it still is bogging down not to the point it was before. It will bogg down then kick into gear and go. I feel like its getting there but idk whats causing the bogging down.
It will now stay running which is great and i can ride it without dying, but it is nowhere near where it should be any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I may have to get a carb rebuild kit but who knows the jet deff helped out a ton though. I thought maybe if i road it for a bit it would stop bogging down but it just kept back firing on me. Thanks for all the help also, Its greatly appreciated!
Before putting it all back together i went to take it for a ride and it still is bogging down not to the point it was before. It will bogg down then kick into gear and go. I feel like its getting there but idk whats causing the bogging down.
It will now stay running which is great and i can ride it without dying, but it is nowhere near where it should be any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I may have to get a carb rebuild kit but who knows the jet deff helped out a ton though. I thought maybe if i road it for a bit it would stop bogging down but it just kept back firing on me. Thanks for all the help also, Its greatly appreciated!
#27
These carbs have lots of nooks and. Crannies you really need to vigilent when cleaning. Pull every jet, hose out every place you can. Do it over a white papertowel and you will see all the crap falling out.
Have you replaced to float valve and polished the seat? Try a new plug too maybe a hotter plug. The letter at the.end of the number will indicate the temp. C=colder , D= hotter, ect.
Have you replaced to float valve and polished the seat? Try a new plug too maybe a hotter plug. The letter at the.end of the number will indicate the temp. C=colder , D= hotter, ect.
#30
Ok, So I have taken the quad out twice so far. Until it is warmed up it boggs down but once you get passed the bogging it will go for 20 mins but then you cant let go of gas cause it will die.
I also went out today to start it up and every ten seconds or so i heard a tick in the motor i believe. I don't even wanna touch it and mess it up more. I am out of ideas to check and i really really don't want to go to a dealer to get it fixes or anywhere else for that matter cause i know what that turns into.
I also went out today to start it up and every ten seconds or so i heard a tick in the motor i believe. I don't even wanna touch it and mess it up more. I am out of ideas to check and i really really don't want to go to a dealer to get it fixes or anywhere else for that matter cause i know what that turns into.


