85 to 88 Suzuki LT230S Quadsport help.
I'm not done wheelin' I'm just doing it with one less wheel lol. I bought another 3 wheeler this week. It's an 83 Honda 200e big red. That makes 4 trikes...and there may be a 5th one in the collection this weekend if the guy accepts my offer. I think I have a problem. I've put a lot of time into the suzuki and a lot of hours on that seat mostly without any problems. Like I said though, the last couple years I've been riding the atc's and the quad just sits in the garage.
One of these days I'm going to make it a point to get a big red. I almost did a couple years ago. Then I got sidetracked with the king and now the sport.
I think the studs may not be strong enough. Each combustion lifts the head a bit and lets gases out. Installing stronger studs would be an option if I didn't have to grind nearly into the stud-hole to fit the sleeve in the case. Studs made out of stronger metal may be an option.
I like the lip idea too, but not sure I trust anyone to grind on my head and jug. CNC is only as good as the guy telling it what to do.
I think the studs may not be strong enough. Each combustion lifts the head a bit and lets gases out. Installing stronger studs would be an option if I didn't have to grind nearly into the stud-hole to fit the sleeve in the case. Studs made out of stronger metal may be an option.
I like the lip idea too, but not sure I trust anyone to grind on my head and jug. CNC is only as good as the guy telling it what to do.
I need help with my Suzuki LT230S...
Hi... I just joined the site and am the owner of a Suzuki LT230S quad. She is a bit rough, but I am confident that with some assistance and advice I can get her running and operating again. First, though, is where can I get a manual that explains all the controls that are all over this thing? There's a button on the clutch lever that doesn't seem to do anything, there are what appears to be two chokes... a lever 'marked' choke, and a pull-push button on the opposite side (primer??) that I have no idea what it does. There are two different "light" switches, and on and on... HELP!! Also, I need a throttle cable--where is the best place to find/ purchase stock parts for this little lady? I have spark and after cleaning the carb I added some fresh fuel, but with several minutes kicking carefully, she hasn't even burped... oh, yeah, the on/off switch was ON at the time. I'll need to get an adapter for my compression tool if I will need to check that. Usually I find a bare MINIMUM of 65 to 70PSI for starting... is this the same for these little 4 cycles? Thanks in advance for any help you'all can offer-- BoB
Welcome to the forums!
I'll give you a quick run down of the controls you asked about.
Choke: the lever marked "choke" is not a butterfly style choke but a fuel enriching circuit to richen the mixture for starting. Pushing down on this lever will essentially add more fuel to the mixture rather than choke off the air. The black **** on the right side of the carb is supposed to further aid in cold weather starting by pulling it out away from the carb though I have never used it.
Lights: the yellow **** on top of the thumb throttle assembly is your on/off switch. The switch on the left hand controls is your hi/low beam headlight control.
Button on clutch lever: depress this button holding it down then pull your clutch lever as you would to disengage the clutch. If everything works properly you have just set the rear parking brake.
The shorter lever next to the clutch lever is a decompression lever to make kicking the motor over significantly easier.
Shift pattern is 1 down and 4 up. Reverse is engaged from the neutral position by flipping the lever on the left side of the motor forward.
I'll give you a quick run down of the controls you asked about.
Choke: the lever marked "choke" is not a butterfly style choke but a fuel enriching circuit to richen the mixture for starting. Pushing down on this lever will essentially add more fuel to the mixture rather than choke off the air. The black **** on the right side of the carb is supposed to further aid in cold weather starting by pulling it out away from the carb though I have never used it.
Lights: the yellow **** on top of the thumb throttle assembly is your on/off switch. The switch on the left hand controls is your hi/low beam headlight control.
Button on clutch lever: depress this button holding it down then pull your clutch lever as you would to disengage the clutch. If everything works properly you have just set the rear parking brake.
The shorter lever next to the clutch lever is a decompression lever to make kicking the motor over significantly easier.
Shift pattern is 1 down and 4 up. Reverse is engaged from the neutral position by flipping the lever on the left side of the motor forward.
Definitely check the compression and let us know what the reading is. 65-70lbs may not be enough.
Have you tried a new plug?
If the valves are out of adjustment it will make these machines a bear to start. Check them with a feeler gauge when the piston is at top dead center on the compression stroke (both valves will be closed)
Click on the link in my signature at the bottom of my post for a ton of information on these bikes.
Edit: the link is in my signature a couple posts above this one.
Have you tried a new plug?
If the valves are out of adjustment it will make these machines a bear to start. Check them with a feeler gauge when the piston is at top dead center on the compression stroke (both valves will be closed)
Click on the link in my signature at the bottom of my post for a ton of information on these bikes.
Edit: the link is in my signature a couple posts above this one.
Thanks for all that INFO!!
Hi and thanks for all that "Control" info. I wondered if that button was what you've indicated, but mine doesn't seem to be working... not a problem at this point as I first need to get it running. I know I have spark, but I am not sure of the compression since my Snap-on gauge doesn't have an adapter for that small thread. Hmmmm..... I'll come up with something, or a new gauge. I am able to move the kick lever with my hand (some effort), w/o using the compression release so I am "suspect" of the engine's compression/condition. Does this make sense, or are they all capable of moving that kick start by hand?
Pastor BoB
Pastor BoB
I have to kick mine with a good amount of force...no way can I spin it over by hand. That said you may check the operation of the decompression mechanism on the right side of the head. If that is hanging up then there goes any chance of decent compression right there. I would check the valve clearances as well. The specs are on the site that is linked in my signature. Good luck!