Hi, i just joined the forum and have a question. I lost the choke plunger on my choke cable and cant find the right replacement. Is there anyway to bypass the pull choke mechanism entirely? Reason I ask, is i have a 1985 Honda 125 thats never needed the choke and its practically the same carburetor. I live in Texas and dont ride in cold weather...lol.

 

Hey guys, if anyone needs rear brake calipers you can pick them up on ebay cheap, almost all sport quads use the same rear caliper. You can also buy newly manufactured one for cheap ($50) off amazon, I just got one and its holding up great so far. I am fairly certain most front calipers are the same as well, based off caliper rebuild kit part #s. All ***** and Pivot Works also still manufacture all replaceable chassis bearings/bushings, ball joints and tie rod ends.

 

Some more useful information, you can use swing arm bolts from a 400EX, or anything that uses a 15mm diameter shaft. I couldn't get a hold of a 230S or 250S swing arm bolt, so I ordered one for a 400EX knowing that it was the correct diameter, I just had to add 5 washers behind the lock nut ( I used 16mm washers from advance auto).

 

have recently changed out the carrier bearings in the carrier on my 1987 LT230E and reinstall everything and I have a question about which way the chain adjusters go in. The previous owner did some weird things so I want make sure I install these correctly. There is a thick side and thin side on them and I am wondering if the thick side goes to the inside or the outside? With the thick side in it very tight and with the thick side out there is a little bit of play (before tightening down the bolt) that matches the play on the top bolt. I have attached some pictures. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

You know that's something I never understood myself. Im pretty sure it's thick side out. But I also know it will work both ways. You have me wondering how mine is done. I'll check today and let you know. I'll see if the manual has anything about it as well.

 

Thank You!! I have scoured the internet and can not for the life of me find the answer.

 

Well, I posted yesterday and do not see it now.
The manual is not clear, all it has is an exploded view with no detail. The units on my Q are thick side out. But who knows if I put them back correctly. They do fit better that way.

 

I really appreciate you looking into that. I am going to go with thick side out because it makes sense with the built in washer on the inside on the top you would want the same thickness on the bottom. I don't see why you would have it thicker on the bottom. Thank you again for your help!

 

I'm assembling a 230 engine using a virgin case casting. In doing so I'm using all new hardware. As I'm putting it together I notice the cylinder/cylinder head studs are reversed in the diagram on partzilla and my manual. FYI. 160mm studs on right, 155mm studs on left. I've put a dozen of these together over the years but never have I installed these studs. How I caught it was the two different length studs are color coded. One is finished black the other is unfinished. Go figure....
keep-em-alive
BigMc

 

I'm in the process of returning my Quadsport to its former glory. I've owned it since 1989 and its been sitting in the back of the shop for the past two decades. Funny as I tore into it, how many memories came back of working on it, and how I "fixed" stuff when I was a kid and had little money.

BRAKES
I have two questions. The brakes were bone dry. I was able to flush the rear master cylinder with a Mityvac pump and get everything to come out clear. Seems to be holding. The front master cylinder wasn't in such great shape. I've cleaned the crud from the master cylinder and ordered a rebuild kit.

Need suggestions on how to flush the lines without pushing more crud into the calipers. I've read to use fluid. I've also read about denatured alcohol, which seemed to dissolve the gel in the master cylinder. Is it safe for the rubber in the lines?

I'm also looking for suggestions on a supplier for replacement lines as it seems no OEM parts are available.


STEERING SHAFT
My question here is about the bottom connection into the frame. I have slop in the bottom connection, but its been like that since I've owned it. OEM diagrams show dust covers in that area, but I don't see any bearings. Anyone know how this connection into the frame below the plate for the tie rods is made, and how I can tighten it?

After suggestions here and in the vault I'd like to examine the shaft. Are there obvious signs of fatigue?

Thank you in advance for the help. Glad to have found a community like this.