Nope! Arkansaw, WI. Barely a town...lol

 

Opps, my bad Guess I should have looked it up lol.

Just thought you meant the state as I've seen more than a few people type it like that just for fun

 

Hey guys, I just posted this in the Arctic Cat forum too, but I thought I might get a response from here a little quicker.

My dad was on the way to his new lot and drove past a farm where a guy was trying to sell a 2000 AC 500 4x4 Auto for $500. My dad said it was a little beat up, as in tear in the seat, tweaked handlebars etc, but the real kicker is the motor is stuck.

For $500, is it worth it to get it and try to revive this thing? I've never dealt with a stuck motor before, so do you have to do more than bore out the cylinder and replace the piston? Does the rod and everything else go out when these things happen?

Any advice would be much appreciated.

 

If the piston welded itself to the cylinder, it was probably run without oil and probably has a bad rod bearing. You'll probably have to split the cases, remove the crank, and have a new rod bearing pressed in. Remove a side cover and wiggle the crank before you buy it. If you feel or hear the crank slapping against the rod, don't buy it.

 

What are my options? She is smoking a bit. Haven't had the top end opened up yet. Assuming everything is still stock and normal ware, what are my options to rebuild and what kind $$$ are we talking. I was thinking about just going with over sized rings and new valve guide seals. Or should I bore the head and put a over size piston in it? What to do???

 

See this post http://forums.atvconnection.com/suzu...ml#post2913398

New rings probably won't help because the cylinder is likely out of round. If you can get a nice, tight bore job to hold the piston straight, and you don't beat the hell out of the engine, you might get a few seasons before it smokes again. Usually runs $250 for a bore job n new piston. $350 for a big bore kit. Fixing the rod costs about $115 I think, but you have to split the cases and send the crank off.

 

Thanks Randy, I am going to tear her down and take a look and see what I got. What size piston should I go with? 40 over? OEM or aftermarket? I have a local shop that can bore the cylinder if you bring in the piston. I will check the crank and rod bearings 2. Of course check the valves as well. This is so much fun!

 

Go with wiseco. Compression will go up and power.

piston size
66mm = 229cc
67mm = 236cc
68mm = 243cc
69mm = 251cc
70mm = 258cc
71mm = 265cc
72mm = 273cc

 

wow quite a selection of bore sizes. Should I stay around 40 over and still maintain the stock rod? Or should I beef up the rod 2?

 

Are you comfortable splitting the cases and sending the crank off?

My logic was to bore it out all the way and then get a big bore kit next time or else a new jug from ebay and start over. 40 over = 1mm over. 66mm is stock. I think 68mm is as big as you can go without a big bore kit. 68.5 or 69mm is the 250S. 70 and 71 are the 230 big bore kits and 72mm is the 250S big bore kit.