got a used brake lever, used exhaust(ended up being a vintage dg unit) used reverse lever, and some almost new grips, cost a whopping 60 bucks.front brakes need to be bled, need to replace the spring inside the carb for the choke(im assuming the spring holds it closed?, meaning if you unscrew the cable the spring is on the top?) adjusted the shocks to firm it up a bit. noticed with the bigger wider tires and better tread design then the 230s i had that its harder to slide the *** end out but it handles better, more stable. feels like something in the front end if off, it seems twitchy and when turning it seems like one tire is turning more then the other? it definatly needs a better shifter setup, i know the blaster shifter worked great on my 230 s but what shifter works for the 230e? and does anyone have a good wiring diagram? my neutral/reverse indicators dont work and the push button start dosnt either, only diagram i found on here is way too small to make out, and im already sick of using a screwdriver to jump the starter relay...

 

$60 is alot for what you got. I got
A working clutch/parking brake lever with cables (Even parking brake works).
An almost new petcock.
A twist throttle.
An almost new rear caliper with a working parking brake and mounts.
An ignition coil.

All for $50

 

He also got a full exaust which is hard to find by itself for under $80.

 

yeah, guy was a bit slow but whatever i needed the parts and it was close by. gotta take the front end apart and figure out why the left front wheel is dragging, clean up the brake rotors, bleed the brakes, fix a few other things, then time to ride it!

 

i had to make the exhaust fit. it was missing a mid pipe or something, muffler is a small one, mabye 10" long, ive got the pipe from the motor to about where the rear brake resivoir is, i used a random 6" piece i had and welded it all together, muffler is a old dg unit, loud as hell, sits too close to the plastic and is melting it a bit, although it looks like whatever was on there before also did the same thing, so im not really concerned. ill adjust it a bit and make a heatshield. now if i can just find a battery thats not 70 bucks...

 

Wal-mart sells batteries for like $35 and they work great. I actually returned mine to wal-mart when I found one at meijer, only in the north of the U.S., for $28 and it was priced wrong, so I got the scanner award which is $5 and the difference back of $5, so I only payed $18 for a new battery. Your best bet is wal-mart though. I would't pay $70 for a battery, thats a rip-off. You can get them on ebay way cheaper.

 

i'll email him later and find out for you.

 

got a battery-20 bucks, works great. idles a bit high, bogs when i hit the throttle though, if i keep blipping the throttle it will run great at high rpm, but it pops and backfires when i let off the gas and wont run for crap at low rpm. too rich?? has a k&n filter directly mounted to the carb and a pretty free flowing exhaust. i know theres the 2 screws on the carb to adjust idle speed and fuel, anyone have a picture or something as to how to adjust lean/rich? high rpm is fine, mid rpm is ok, its low rpm that sucks

 

The more air flow the more fuel needed. Start at 2 turns out on the air/fuel screw and go in or out from there. The screw in the middle of the carb is your idle adjustment. the screw in the front of the carb is your air/fuel screw. If you have to go more then 2.5 turns out to get it running right, then you should jet up.

 

Anybody know if blaster shocks will bolt right up? Are there any improvements from blaster shocks and lt230 shocks? Thanks