Yes running lean would be my guess. As mentioned in my first post if I partially block off the air intake and restrict the amount of air going into the carb I can get it to rev up. Doing this forces it to pull more fuel into the carb thereby making it run richer. However, I have set the pilot air screw in all different positions from 3/4 turn out to 4 turns out and it doesn 't make any difference.

 

Over here they use a sonic cleaner in hoot water for carb cleaning.
But here's the recipe and take note of details.

Hi all ! Im here to let you all in on a family secret for carb cleaning.
about 2 months ago i went to see my old man (he is a retired mechnic and worked at ryder truck for 35 years..he knows his sh*t) He was out in the garage working on a lawn mower carb. I sat down talking to him and watched him take out a cooking stove,a old sause pan and pour 2 qts of lemmon juice,i asked what he was doing.He said he was going to clean the carb! So i watched him light the stove and put the sause pan full of lemmon juice on it. Then he took the carb apart . When it got to a boil he droped the body of the carb,the bowl,the jetts and the screws in .(YOU DONT WANT TO PUT THE FLOTE OR ANY RUBBER O RINGS IN ECT ECT ECT) but the plastic parts are ok .He cooked it for 30 mins and pulled the parts out and washed them with water and blew them off with compresed air untill dry.From what he says the acid in the lemmon juice and the heat break down all the crap in the little pasagesse that you cant see. i have done this 5 times and i have to say that IT WORKS AWSOME!
A few tips do it outside it realy stinks,use a old pan (when you see the crap that comes out you wont want to eat food out of it again)
i know that i will catch some crap from people but all i can say it works

 

I know the machine is acting like it is running lean but I also tried a carb from a 2009 that was the same and I know it works good. I put it on the eiger and it made no difference. That is what is confusing the hell out of me.

 

Ok lets put the carb issue at rest, you mentionned earlier you changed valves. All I can see remaining at this point is the timing. Backfiring is a sign. Remember all the work you did besides the carb deals with the timing. All I can suggest is recheck timing. You probably know about the two TDC when setting the timing chain. I'm just throwing things in the air in case it springs ideas. I'll try a mechanic I know and come back to you.

Norm

 

Thanks Norm, I will double check the timing but the last time I checked it everything lined up. The marks on the timing gear lined up with the mark on the flywheel. I checked the flywheel and all weights were solid and in good condition and the keyway and key were good. thanks Norm

 

Yes Renegade timing marks with valves closed at tdc.

Good Luck

 

Well back from the holidays and once again checking out the Eiger. I double checked the timing and everything is bang on. Once again the symptoms are that it does not want to rev up. I can get it to rev if I gently squeeze the throttle slowly or if I partially restrict the air flow at the intake. If I give it throttle quickly it will die. Anyone with more ideas will be greatly appreciated. thanks

 

Welcome back. I assume from doing the valves work you did a compression test and it was close to 140?
Besides this I would have to go back to the carb.
A new kit was installed, did the kit include the needle? If yes then
what is brass or stainless steel. On another thread here the guy's problem was just the needle he used from his new kit made of brass, papa HS asked him to put back his old needle made of stainless and all of a sudden the quad is running great. As I mentionned before a Dynojet kit made all the difference with mine with the needle set on third notch and we used a #126 main jet. The eiger comes with a #122 stock.
Hoping someone else might add.
Good Luck

Norm

 

I guess since you changed complete carb..Than maybe I need to ask you this...Does I load up idling at long times...like 5 or 10 mins.?

 

I cannot remember if your atv is like the one I had the other day....Does your atv crankcase engine breather hose go from engine case to air box ? Or does it goes from engine case to air intake? If it goes to air cleaner intake...take it loose while its running an see if thats help...The one I had ran in to the air intake would do the same things you are talking about..It had an brand carb installed an did the same thing..I notice this breather hose going into the fresh air chamber,So I reducted into the air box an bingo fixed problem....IMO the engine was putting secondary air into fresh air chamber an it was messing up cv slide and fuel mixtures...So when I replumb into air box where needed to be so that secondary air could get filtered in to fresh air an it ran like an champ.....Sorry for long post.Just look were the engine crankcase breather hose is.if its ducted n2 air box then this has been corrected by suzuki an its not the problem..But if its ducted in to air intake then just unplug it from intake an see if runs better....Get back with us here...Thanks