When i was looking for an axle for my banshee, I was told that Durablue came with an unconditional warranty against bending or breaking???? So im lucky i didnt get one huh? I think Ill go with the axle idea. Sounds stronger than offsetting rims. also i bet the aftermarket axles are way stronger than stock anyway. Thanks guys [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

Do offset rims or wheel spacers put more stain on bearings and such? Just curious.......thanx.....

 

They both do the same. Its not the stress on the wheel, its the bending stress on the axle or the spindle. the further out you push the wheels, the greater the bending moment thus greater the stress......ie more likely to fail under load..... therefore its a better idea to use an axle that was designed for a wider wheel track. Just keep in mind that when the manufacturers build these machines, they have whats called a factor of safety with every component. This means that when they create a peice of your bike, its not design to only just hold up under the normal conditions, its design way beyond that so that the safety is increased with the less likelihood of failure. So things like spinning your front wheels around isnt a problem at all, unless you plan on jumping HUGE! in that case spend the money and avoid the damage. Peace [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-cool.gif[/img]

 

Durablue's do have a warranty but they still suck. I think the Axcalibar has a warranty also

 

Hey guys,

Well the shop is almost finished with my bike. I get it back tonite. It was supposed to be last nite but they noticed a leak under the water pump so there gona check that out first. Now I have a few more questions. Firstly, what gearing would you recommend for an '87 on stock tyres? also, the guy at the shop told me that my powervalves are operating!? He said the bike wil still go fast but you wont have much top end cause the exhaust port wont change. he said something about the actuator in the clutch side? He asked me whether i wanted him to pull it apart but i wouldnt mind having a crack at it myself. Does anyone know what it mite be????? I didt notice before when running it would excelerate hard then have a big drop off in performance about mid to high range.

 

There isn't much to the powervalve assembly. GET YOURSELF A SERVICE MANUAL! I don't understand why everyone is so hesitant to buy one of these! I get one for everything I own. I've always been able to find manuals for 15-30 dollars but many people on this forum claim they have to pay much more. Even if you have to pay $80, just think how much the hourly rate is at any decent shop. Also, if you aren't much of a mechanic, you will gradually become one with every reading of your various service manuals. Everyone seems more than willing to spend hundreds, even thousands of dollars on aftermarket crap but cringe at the thought of paying any money at all on a book that helps you maintain that investment.
Now back to the valve... Basically all there is to it is a drum shaped valve in the cylinder, a gear driven off the crank in the bottom end, and a rod connecting the two. As long as all the bearings are good, the parts are all intact, and the spring return in the cylinder is set right, the valve will work. You also need to periodically clean the valve and valve area of deposits so that it does not stick. Unless you are a complete kluts with a wrench, get a manual and service the valve yourself. Removing the side cover is no big deal but, if it is your first time, it is nice to have a friend help out in case you have to delve in deaper.
As a side note, this type of exhaust valve is no where near as effective as the modern day type of exhaust valve. Today's valves actually change the exhaust port size and height, whereas, the Quadracer's valve only creates a larger area for exhaust expansion. This provides for less back-pressure at high rpm and thus more potential power.

 

Thanks Btodd. I agree with you about the manuals. I probably should have mentioned that Im picking up the Suzuki manual for the bike tonite when i pick up the bike. I asked the question to get a feel on how hard and involved it is to fix the valve problem. So your saying that you wont notice much power change? Does anyone know whether its possible to put an RM500 cylinder of a new model bike on to an old LT500 engine? Or any other cylinder with the new technology in the powervalve that will increase the power? Thanks again guys [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

Back off topic for a second. If you can find a race ready shifter kart for $2000 it is hot! A race ready shifter kart pretty much starts at $10,000 (not a typo). Even to get something to run in a box class (like the KT100) will run about 5 grand. Kart racing is big bucks. Tony Kart and Birel make some really nice ones. Here is a site that has some info: http://www.kartracer.com/hotlinks/usshop.asp

 

Dude, well i find that very hard to believe. Back in '99, i bought a second hand '98 chassis called an Arrow AX6 roller and i got it for $1600. I then bought tyres and a second hand KT100s on a fresh bore, and a seat to fit me snug and that cost me $2200(AUS) all up. And that was from a kart shop! You dont need a Tony kart to win hey. In my class of about 25-40 karts (depending on the weather), there we a mix of tony karts, Arrows, Techno, Birel, and Omega (Australian chassis). Im not too sure about the costs of shifter karts but they arent that much more second hand over here! the prices you talk of sound like brand new gear. why go brand new??? I came nineth in the nationals in '99 with a '98 chassis, and a '97 engine! Dont beleive the hype. anew set of tyres will make any old chassis stand up and be counted, given enough time has been done testing. Guys over here are proving that every race day. There's a guy down here that runs a '94 Techno and last meeting he wiped everyone! All came down to testing and knowing your chassis. I would never recommend buying new to a new driver.