I was wondering what everybody thought of Tudors no-blow gaskets head and base. Also what clutch would you recomend fiber plates or kevlar . Does anybody have a KN clamp on on there 500 do you like it? Also what kind of compresion should a stock 500 have. how do you tell if your reeds are still good. Thanks for any info

 

<< I was wondering what everybody thought of Tudors no-blow gaskets head and base. Also what clutch would you recomend fiber plates or kevlar . Does anybody have a KN clamp on on there 500 do you like it? Also what kind of compresion should a stock 500 have. how do you tell if your reeds are still good. Thanks for any info >>




We didn't have any luck with the no blow head gasket- you have to seal it with silicone and we used the recommend product. Lasted about 10 minutes then leaked water. The factory Suzuki gasket, sprayed with the aerosol Copper Coat has worked best on the 87 model. I can't comment on the no-blow base gasket as we haven't tried one.
I just put a complete Barnett clutch in my 89 and I like it very well. The 87 has a factory cluth with Barnett springs and it works well also. Both are fiber plates and we use Castrol 20w-50 motor oil in the case.
My 89 with stock bore has 145 psi compression.
Pull your reed cage out and look at them, they should be complete (of course) and not bent or bowed away from the sealing surface. One early sympton of bad reeds is hard starting.

 

I got to thinkin maybe it is just my springs are weak and the clutch is not bad. What would the possibility of that be. But it might be worth just going ahead and doing it all. Also has anybody had any expierence with polishing the side cases and if so any tips on it. Thanks Jeremy

 

I'll agree truckracer,

The tudors copper head gasket only works if BOTH mating surfaces are perfectly flat. I tried 4-5 different types of sealant, let it set for a week, standing on my head in 2 different directions, and couldn't make mine seal either.
Called them, and was told my cylinder was warped (That was the side that wouldn't seal)
Besides that... the darn thing is THICK! something like .040&quot; It might work better if it was thinner. I also used the stocker and worked great even though I'm running 185psi compression.

I will swear to the base gasket they offer. Put one in this spring in a machine that's been ported so big there isn't much material left to seal, and it hasn't leaked one bit. The paper gaskets were blown darn near every ride regardless what I tried.

Hope this helps

 

thanks for the info are either one of you running a clamp on kn and if so did you see lots of improvement in the performance of the motor thanks alot also what gearing do you guys run for drag and dune riding

 

I had a k&amp;n on my old 500 and it worked great i had to put a velocity tube on it to get more air. It was on alky. For dragging I ran a 14-43 on my bike. And ran about 190lbs of compression. It always ran good at little sahara.

 

The clamp on K&amp;N is a good setup. In the sand, make sure to run the outerwear... you could end up with sand induction otherwise.
Was it a big HP improvement... probably not, but all things are addative. When you add more air, more fuel, improve airflow... more power is made.

Be careful with the 'gearing' question... What works for one, might not work for you.
best recommendation, get a few different sprockets, and try a few combo's.
So much depends on the HP output of the bike, what tires are you running etc.

I run 13/40 with 22&quot; 12 paddle haulers but I'm at 7000 feet in elevation. I do more play riding than dragging or hill shooting.

For really steep hills, I will go to 42 on the rear... (I keep 5-6 sprockets around so I always have the right combo)

 

it is all about the set up you have.