LT80 turns over but won't start
#42
#43
What you have there is a china kit with a Wiseco piston. Boring your oem cylinder and using Suzuki parts is always best. FYI: don't use their studs. They stretch.
I'm guessing you got a china carb also. Have you cleaned the carb? Even a new one should be checked for yuck in the jets. I'll also guess that it has a air screw on that carb, which a OEM doesn't. Maybe try messing with that.
I'm guessing you got a china carb also. Have you cleaned the carb? Even a new one should be checked for yuck in the jets. I'll also guess that it has a air screw on that carb, which a OEM doesn't. Maybe try messing with that.
#44
Got this carb
Didn't clean it, didn't think I'd needed to but ill pull it and do that. . Eventually ill get with you to bore and get the piston as I saw somewhere else that you do that.
On a separate note, do you sell everything I need for the electric start? Mine does absolutely nothing when I press the button. Checked the fuse and it looks intact. Brand new battery. So I'm not sure what the problem is. Thinking about replacing all of it if I need to.
Didn't clean it, didn't think I'd needed to but ill pull it and do that. . Eventually ill get with you to bore and get the piston as I saw somewhere else that you do that.
On a separate note, do you sell everything I need for the electric start? Mine does absolutely nothing when I press the button. Checked the fuse and it looks intact. Brand new battery. So I'm not sure what the problem is. Thinking about replacing all of it if I need to.
#46
lol I dont either but I know its older. It doesn't have the lil red reset button.
#47
Evening, hoping someone can help here,
recently bought a LT80 as a non runner, previous owner run it out of fuel and couldn’t start it again, (**** in the carb) ultrasonic cleaned the carb and she started and run okish (revs were all over the spot)
fast forward 2 weeks, struggling to start and then wouldn’t start at all, checked for spark and good spark, fully rebuilt the OEM carb with new seals jets etc, still no better, pulled top end off and piston/ cylinder was knackered, would actually cough and fart with abit of easy start,
so, rebuilt with fresh piston cylinder gaskets and does nothing with or without easy start, absolutely nothing, still got good spark, arrow on piston facing exhaust port, fitted a brand new carb that came with bike, bypassed the rear brake safety switch, new spark plug as well, charged the battery, new fuel, removed fan from flywheel and woodruff key is still there, waiting on tool to come before I can remove it,
all I can think is crank seals? Some ordered on the way as we speak but abit baffled at moment if I’m honest, has anyone got any ideas or similar problems like this before?
thanks in advance, Charlie
recently bought a LT80 as a non runner, previous owner run it out of fuel and couldn’t start it again, (**** in the carb) ultrasonic cleaned the carb and she started and run okish (revs were all over the spot)
fast forward 2 weeks, struggling to start and then wouldn’t start at all, checked for spark and good spark, fully rebuilt the OEM carb with new seals jets etc, still no better, pulled top end off and piston/ cylinder was knackered, would actually cough and fart with abit of easy start,
so, rebuilt with fresh piston cylinder gaskets and does nothing with or without easy start, absolutely nothing, still got good spark, arrow on piston facing exhaust port, fitted a brand new carb that came with bike, bypassed the rear brake safety switch, new spark plug as well, charged the battery, new fuel, removed fan from flywheel and woodruff key is still there, waiting on tool to come before I can remove it,
all I can think is crank seals? Some ordered on the way as we speak but abit baffled at moment if I’m honest, has anyone got any ideas or similar problems like this before?
thanks in advance, Charlie
#48
Test the compression. Fairly sure a blown crankcase seal would drop it. The crankcase would also be blowing oily fuel out, so streaks from the seal area would show. Did you get the rings in right? Have had a few people on here that have tried to fit them upside down and wrecked the new cylinder. I tried to fit the rings upside down myself on my first LT80 rebuild, as the R on the ring was so small I couldn't see it, so assumed there wasn't a right way up, but realised it was then too big for the cylinder, and Jack put me right. Jack also said don't fit Chinese cylinder kits and that the ports must be chamfered so the rings don't catch on them. Genuine new Suzuki cylinders are, but I went for a rebore so got very sharp edged ports.
#49
Hello everybody,
Im gonna try to gather also in this thread, because of similiar problems.
First of, LT 80 from 87 or some year (it's a friends quad)
and im trying to get it to run again after a long time, so what was done until, New spark plug, new air filter, new brake safety switch, new wiring loom (this time with the red button underneath the fender right side, previousely there wasn't) , new ignition switch, oil change, new belt, new jets for the carburetor, new battery, new regulator/rectifier, new starter and a new petcock....so she schould start i guess, but absolutely nothing! Turns over very fast, but i have the feeling that something isn't quit right with the new petcock, if i pull the hose on ON position there is no fuel coming from the petcock (wich i know is normal because it's vaccum based) but when i turned it on prime it just drips some kind of, there is not really a steady flow.
I've been messing for weeks now but im about to loose my patience....spark is there and compression is about 120psi.
Do somebody knows something that i maybe miss?
Greetings from Luxembourg
Stephan
Im gonna try to gather also in this thread, because of similiar problems.
First of, LT 80 from 87 or some year (it's a friends quad)
and im trying to get it to run again after a long time, so what was done until, New spark plug, new air filter, new brake safety switch, new wiring loom (this time with the red button underneath the fender right side, previousely there wasn't) , new ignition switch, oil change, new belt, new jets for the carburetor, new battery, new regulator/rectifier, new starter and a new petcock....so she schould start i guess, but absolutely nothing! Turns over very fast, but i have the feeling that something isn't quit right with the new petcock, if i pull the hose on ON position there is no fuel coming from the petcock (wich i know is normal because it's vaccum based) but when i turned it on prime it just drips some kind of, there is not really a steady flow.
I've been messing for weeks now but im about to loose my patience....spark is there and compression is about 120psi.
Do somebody knows something that i maybe miss?
Greetings from Luxembourg
Stephan
#50
There should be a steady flow on PRIme. Also, if you spin the engine over on the starter with pipe disconnected there should be a steady flow when tap is ON. Have you put enough fuel in? As it takes fuel from about 30mm above the bottom, except when on REServe. Anyway, I find they can be bad to get going after a lay up and generally start them with a sniff of gas from a gas blowlamp, surprising how effective this is on two strokes. Plug has to be dry when you do this as spinning over on petrol until you have "wet the plug" ensures no spark, so no start. Advantage of gas is it can't wet the plug and if the mix of gas and petrol is too rich, when on gas it will weaken as the gas disperses when you turn the gas off, until it is "right" to fire.





