I have a 2003 Polaris Predator 500.

Runs fine, unless I turn the headlights on or it warms up enough to turn the electric fan on. Let's say I turn the lights on while it's running. It will run for a couple of seconds then stall. With the engine stalled, the lights will stay on but they "flutter" or change intensity as if the current were not constant. The same will happen to the fan if it is on.

The battery is new. Measures 12.6V. I think it measures 14.2 when increased RPM (Difficult to measure by myself and get the probes to stay on the battery). The alternator measures 10A. All components seem to measure ok for Ohms.

Does anyone have any ideas!? The only thing I can think of is the voltage regulator. Any really good way to test this?

Thanks!

 

You have a bad connection. Lights and the fan draw a lot more current than the CDI, so when they are turned on the extra voltage drop through the bad connection causes the CDI to quit making spark. The flickering lights is an indication of the same thing (bad connection).

12.6 volts is the right value for the battery voltage with the engine off. 14.2 volts is a good voltage across the battery when the engine is running. This vindicates the battery, charging system, and voltage regulator as long as you are measuring these voltages with the lights and/or fan turned on and the flickering is happening at that very moment.

According to the wiring diagram the CDI, lights, and fan all go through the ignition switch when it is in the on position. Try wiggling the switch key and wires with the lights on to see if you can affect the flickering. Then try doing this to all the wires and connectors. Bad connections often get hot when current is being pulled through them, so feel around for warm connectors/jpoints working on a cold engine with the lights on. Don't forget to look at all the ground lugs too.

 

Your right on track. Try a new voltage regulator and double check your grounds.

 

You were right on track LynnEdwards!

Ended up being that the connection gonig into the ignition was bad. The wires comming out of the female connection must have broken for the last owner, then rather then putting on new females, the just shoved the red wire in ontop of the broken wire. It must have been able to support enough current for the CDI and for me to ride for 3 hours, then moved around a bit and quit.

Thanks a lot for the help! You just saved me $100+ from buying the regulator, then the CDI when that wouldn't have worked!

 

wires could be touching

 

Glad you got it working.

Lynn Edwards