I am about to buy a 5X10 tilt trailer brand new from a local dealer. It has a wooden floor. Is it a good idea to treat the wood with anything? If so with what? Don't want it to get slippery when wet but would like the wood to last as long as possible.

Thanks

Matt

 

I would remove each board, then prime and paint each board individually.

Do this even if the boards have been pressure treated.

Shake sand from your hand onto the wet paint, then spray a thin coat over it to seal the sand onto the previous coat. The sand will give you some traction.

Painting pressure treated wood will encapsulate the chemicals in the wood, making the wood both last longer and providing a barrier from them and you, the environment, kids, etc. The chemicals used for pressure treating the wood, although recently changed and less toxic, are still chemicals that you do not want to touch. Wear gloves while handling the wood.

 

just use water sealer on the boards, then since the trailer is new go buy some spray undercoating and do the bottom of the trailer all the metal it will keep it from rusting as fast. wisconsin winters (for me) are known for destroying trailers.

i painted the wood on my trailer (black) and the stuff got real soft in the heat and pealed up so it was kind of a waste of time next time i will just use water sealer.

 

I recommend Herculiner in a can that you roll on with a paint roller. About $80 for a gallon. I put it on my open boat's seats and it has lasted over 4 years now. I had tried everything and am happy with the Herculiner. Will stand up to lots of abuse and it has a rough texture to it. You can get it at most auto parts stores. It's like the sprayed in truck bed liners. Very tough. Don't use the spray paint can liner. Doesn't last as long.

 

On my trailer I used Penafin Green Label wood preservative, that is specifically formulated for pressure treated wood. It is actually Brazilian Rosewood Oil.

Here is a before picture:


And here is an after picture:


Do not use Thompson's water seal. I had ordered the Penafin and expected it to show up within a few days, so backed the trailer in the garage and started installing the recessed swiveling D-rings, and then the e-track. I had expected the Penafin to show up by the time I got around to the e-track install, but it was still in shipping. I wanted the wood under the e-tracks treated before putting the e-track down, so used some Thompson's wood treatment just in the 5" wide area under the e-track. That gave me the chance to compare the Thompson's wood treatment to the Penafin wood treatment that I later used on the rest of the trailer. The Thompson's wood treatment is like applying water compared to the Penafin wood treatment. It is very thin, and the wood really doesn't look like much of anything has been done to it when you are done. The Thompson's wood treatment dryed to touch within minutes, and the Penafin wood treatment took just over 12 hours to dry to the touch, because it is a much more oil based product instead of water based. The Penafin, in comparison, leaves a deep soft rich wood tone that at least looks like it is going to do a much better job of protecting the wood. Penafin claims 99% UV protection for a minimum of 5 years.

I had also read of several people that just painted the wood of their trailer deck with used motor oil. I decided not to use the used motor oil as a wood protectant. I often times have to get down on one knee to thread the tie down straps around an axle when tieing down a vehicle, and I couldn't see myself kneeling down on oil soaked wood, and then getting in the leather interior of my tow truck with the same oily pants on. Plus I was concerned about the oil soaked wood being a dust magnet on dirt roads.

DV

 

I have seen herculiner or any of the other spray on materials put on everything from steel trailers to wood, and they give you a slip free surface that wears well. Personally I went to Lowes and bought a gallon of anti slip paint and painted my deck with it. The sand is already mixed in, gives you excellent grip. With a tilt bed, my ATV's used to slide backwards and if I didn't tilt quick enough, I'd be loading it all over again. Not any more. And I don't worry about slippery mud covered boots any more either. My next trailer will have the Spray liner applied though. I am more of a doing it once and forget it kind of guy. Bottom line though, you have to treat your wood at least once every couple of years if you want it to last. Same goes for steel decks, you have to paint it or it will rust on you. So there doesn't seem to be any way to get away form doing some maintenence once in a while.
Desert Viper's trailer is the bomb. They come in Alluminum and Steel, and are cometatively priced. He has the tilt deck, I am looking at the normal one using ramps. Both are good choices.

 

Hey D-Viper. Did you see that H&H has pulled their website? I sure hope they didn't close their doors.

 

In the first place I'd recommend only buying a trailer with a 2" treated deck. My trailers sit out in the weather, and the last one I bought (16' car hauler) had a 2x8 non-treated deck. After about 5 years I had to rip out the deck and replace it with treated 2x8's installed with galvanized carriage bolts. It's been fine since, and that was 10 years ago. Cost is not that bad if you shop around, I just bought a new 5x10 3000# GVWR with super heavy duty ramp (ramp is framed with 2x2 tubing and has very heavy gauge expanded metal), 15" ST type tires, Dexter EZ-Lube axle, 2" hitch, etc. for $950. In comparison, the local Tractor Supply store is selling a light duty 5x10 (2000# GVWR) with 12" tires, cheapo angle iron framed ramp with lightweight mesh, non-treated lumber deck, and 1-7/8" hitch for $700. After looking at the two trailers paying the $250 difference was a no-brainer choice!

 

D-viper, that wood on your trailer looks way too nice to drive a dirty quad on now!!!! that really came out nice, does it bead water and keep stuff from sticking?

 

Ive used Thompsons before....not impressed.

Last time I went to the local mom and pop lumber yard and asked them....I dont remember the brand but you could tell the difference RIGHT off.....when I opened it up it looked more like white paint....but dried clear....really thick.