Maybe this would help

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW

Crankshaft

 

well, glad it wasnt a total loss and I hope you find the real cause of the problem (not the one-way) so it doesnt happen again.

 

They call it a one-way because it only spins one way. The way it is designed it wont let the motor spin backwards. That is bubba's problem. Rather then the bearing slipping (which they dont do unless worn out) something has to take the hit from the backlash

 

The counter balancer is not driven by the one-way or in between the one-way and the crank. The motor can spin any direction it would like but its going to turn the one-way and starter motor with it if its going backwards. The initial torque is on everything that is changing direction (balancer) or just starting to turn (one-way) but one cant protect the other by "going out like stock would have" since the crank is in the middle.

 

I'm as confused as everyone else. The balancer key that holds the balancer gear on sheared? If that gears nut came loose then the balncer is free to move side to side (which is a design flaw imo) and all hell would break loose as the lobe from the crank and the balncers lobe spin around they would collide, breaking many things apart. Fortunatly for you, it sounds like it was coming loose and the two lobes were beggining to rub on each other. You were smart to shut it down when you did, imo. Why do you need a new crank? Are the lobes just nicked up a little? If so, that shouldn't be a problem.

 

I've heard of a couple of others that have sheared the ballancer key. If the nut came lose just a little the key by itself is not enough to hold it and would shear. That nut gets torqued to 100 ft.lbs. and a new lock washer should be used every time IMO.

 

Unless you have the right tools its damn near impossible to get 100 ft lbs on that nut. Especially on a bench.

 

Yes it is. Someone needs to invent a impact wrench that tells you when your at the desired torque. Is there anything like that available?

That's also the reason for a new key and lock washer everytime those type nuts are removed, imo.

 

Wow...thanks for the links to the rod and crank assm.!!! I'll prolly end up gettin that being as I'd save over $300 for a new crank.

I have to get a new crank cause when I previously blew my engine I did quite a bit of damage to the crank (not enough to ruin it but close) so I got it welded and balanced. Now that it is welded I can't get the repair work done that I need.

 

I wouldn't do the buy it now price. If your willing to do the 200. I'd put that as your highest bid to insure you win. Every crank I've ever seen on ebay sold for $125 or less, all but one was under $100, one went for $20 supposedly in good shape.