Trust me you dont need carbon to mate your valve surfaces / Thats what lapping compound is for .
I have had near air tight leak down test on Brand new never fired motors . As stated earlier about the only place you have any metal to metal breakin is Compression ring . Your rod main and cam bearings will contact SOME at start up unless your using a accusump oil accumlulator .
If you getting bearing contact youve got tolerence or oil pressure problems .
I have no problem using Sythetics on fresh cylinders .
And if you want Amsoil in your machine look them up on the web and ask them directly
Anyone use ER (energy release ) I have seen a builder assemble a V8 with it .
it contains chlorinated paraffin ~~ <--- Look it up . I DONT LIKE IT .
Get used to Syn . We need to make our own oil . I would love to run my machines on US made methanol and Synthetic oils .
I'm off my soap box now
Who's next ?

 

Synthetic is better for several reasons, but that doens't mean you can't use regular oil. The key is keeping either one clean and fresh.

Carbon to seat valves? That's crazy talk. The last place you want carbon build up is on your valves.

 

Use regular oil for break in. Synthetic is to good of an oil to use during break in. If used the pistion rings will not set in decent and other parts will not set in. After break in use snynthetic. It will not hurt the engine in any way. (or at least not to my knowledge) Snythetic is a better quaility of oil IT IS STILL OIL. I hear people talk about synthetic oil like it is not oil but some other type of lubicant. IT IS STILL OIL!!! Use it and you will never turn back.

 

Why do Corvettes and Vipers,Astin-Martin, and other high performance vehicles, come from the factory with Mobil One already in the crank case?
Dont they need carbon on the valves.... or ring break in too?

 

it's a ballsy move.. with synthetic, you don't have enough resistance to properly seat the rings.

 

Ever heard of "Old wives tales"? That's what keeps all this misinformation going. The point about Vipers and Vettes coming from the factory with synthetic oils says it all. Many Mercedes and BMWs do too. I was advised by an engineer to put Amsoil synthetic right in after an overhaul. Let me ask you this. Would a factory that has to warranty their own engines fill their own crankcases with synthetic oil if the engines on their new cars had ring seating problems as a result? NO WAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

belive what you want. i've been building engines for a while.. can you get away with it? yes.. is it the best? no.. look at the combustion chambers of a motor broken in on synthetic vs convensional.

 

On our Cannondales the manual says to use the "Break in Oil" for one hr. The oil from the factory was petroleum oil, non synthetic. After break in Cannondale recomends synthetic blend or full synthetic. I run Mobile synthetic 5-30 in the motor and Valvoline synthetic blend in the tranny. Most Dale riders run full synthetic in the tranny. I choose not to and haven't had any problems.. Never break in an engine w/ any type of synthetic oil. Matter of fact 15-20hrs on petroleum oil will let eveything seat better before switching over to the synthetic oils.. The most heat in an engine is produced up under the piston as I have been told by a BMW/Honda engineer. This is where synthetic oils have a huge advatage over petroleum based oils..

http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

http://www.yft.org/tex_vfr/tech/oil.htm

 

thanks guys

i really appreciate your responses. i think i'm going to go with the synthetic, but to be sure i'm going to shoot an email to ansoil first ... just to hedge my bets.

again, thansk for all of your input.

keith

 

i believe your best bet would be use non synthetic for at least the first 20 hours..


then after the breaking period use synthetic if you want.

better safe than sorry and non synth will not hurt an engine.