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Cylinder for 2000 Blaster

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  #21  
Old 01-23-2005, 12:53 AM
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Originally posted by: Shav0
Originally posted by: NichelsonRacing87
Originally posted by: Shav0
Thats true. Any idiot can clean up the intake tunnel and get rid of any imperfections from the factory but thats not really gaining you any over all HP numbers. The real power comes the transfer ports and exhaust shape, and as said before proper port timing should always be considered.

I know my way around a 2 stroke very well, and I wouldn't dare try and port one. Like I said before, as little as 1 mm can make the difference of life or death. Imagine this, Your porting the exhaust port and you remove a little too much off the port floor. Because your piston is essentially the 'valve' of a two stroke, when the piston is at TDC the side skirt dosn't quite cover the port and now the exhaust is open to the crankcase. This is going to ruin your cylinder as it will draw exhaust into the crankcase and not to mention ruin the vacuum effect the crankcase which draws in the mixture for the next stroke. . . then what?
first of all i'm not an idiot, and i work in a machine shop so i have experience on doing things like this, and i know alot about 2 strokes too, that's all i ever dealt with, so before anyone starts saying that any idiot can clean up the intake, you're wrong, because i've been through schooling for this and i'm sure after learning how it's done i would know, so don't try to call me an idiot when i know how to do engine work on these things
Did I ever say you were a idiot? What I ment was that it dosn't take a genious to figure out how to clean up the intake, all you need to do is remove any ruff spots left by the factory. If you need to go to school to learn how to use a dremel then fill your boots. Don't talk to me about experience, your 17 dude.
i might only be 17, but i've worked on these thing for years, my dad worked on them for a living, i'm related to a guy who runs a quad parts shop, have a stepdad that worked on them most of his life, an uncle that rebuilds them constantly, and i went through schooling for being a machinist, so many people bash teenagers when they can learn just as much as anybody, most teenagers i've seen so care to learn about things, and i'm not like them, and i didn't use a dremel neither, it's not too hard to plug the thing in and turn it on. I'm not trying to make smart a** comments, i would just like to have a little credit cause i did do the work on that Blaster jug and i did port it, not just the intake ports
 
  #22  
Old 01-23-2005, 08:55 AM
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Default Cylinder for 2000 Blaster

All im trying to say is that I didn't say you were a idiot, thats it, over, see ya.
 
  #23  
Old 01-23-2005, 12:43 PM
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Default Cylinder for 2000 Blaster

Originally posted by: machwon
I am not a big fan of resleeving with cast iron and personally I prefer the nicasil coated cylinders. I guess I've rarely seen rings cut loose and tear up sleeves bad enough that they must be replaced. Aluminum cylinders typically have the plating striped, and are bored to a larger size if need be (to clean up the marks) or they will weld the cylinder (fill cracks) up and then re-bore it. The cost to replate is usually around $175 (extra for weld and/or bore) and is not much more than the labor alone for a resleeve at most shops. Nicasil offers increased cooling, reduced friction, and good wear resistance. Putting an iron liner in a normally nicasiled cylinders reduces the heat tranfer capabilities making it run hotter (this loses power in big in 2 strokes). Some of the faster blasters in mx classes run a stock cylinder, resleeved with aluminum and nicasiled to run cooler and maintain HP through out the race.
I'll gladly show you a pic of a cr80 that came into our shop that had parts of the piston melted into the nikasil, its getting a steel sleeve now.
 
  #24  
Old 01-24-2005, 12:13 AM
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Default Cylinder for 2000 Blaster

Originally posted by: Shav0
All im trying to say is that I didn't say you were a idiot, thats it, over, see ya.
ok later on

NichelsonRacing87
 
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