Have a <u>stock</u> 660 Grizzly and ride at:

2000 feet

60 to 80 degree weather


1. How many fuel screw turns out? What is the factory setting?

2. Does the needle have C-clip notchs for adjustment?

3. What would be the best main jet? What is factory?



Have seen plenty of input in these forums on Dynojet stuff, but I can't see myself spending fifty bucks for needles and oddball jets that will never get used. Would like to work with what I have instead of spending more money on aftermarket pieces.

Thanks a bunch.

 

If its totally stock, then you have the best jets in there now, and they are the proper size and setting, if they havent been touched.
The mixture screw starts at about 2 turns out, and fine tune from there. Things like air filter oiling , humidity and temperature can effect the final setting.
Basicly on a warm motor, set the idle speed a little faster than normal, and slowly turn the mixture screw in, untill the motor stumbles or misses. Then turn it out, until it stumbles....then set it halfway between those two settings. You can keep track of the amount of turns you make.

 

Is the needle adjustable?

 

The needle is adjustable...either by shimming or moving the e clip, if theres more than one slot...some have 3 slots some have 5.
CV carbs are somewhat self adjusting in the midrange, if you have a stock motor, its fine from the factory.
Power comes from air...not fuel, so to just richen things up, and not do the mods to get more air thru the motor, will only have it running worse. Its a package deal to get more horsepower....you cant just do one, you have to do the intake , exhaust and rejet. Sometimes you can get a little increase with just an air filter change and slight rejetting, but the way they come from the factory is a good compromise between drivability and performance.

 

I know that it isn't what you want to hear, but the dyno jet kit isn't bull. It changes the fuel mixture in the whole range. It uses a different needle taper and a smaller main jet (153mikuni to 150 dj). The fuel delivery is improved and it really does help. The size of the main jet combined with the better needle taper make the mixture better, not just more.
I wouldn't do it without a higher flow filter, but that is the first thing most people do. I bought the power kit and it made a definite difference. I have read about people doing the power kits and not seeing any more performance, but I have tried them twice and have been really impressed. My bear tracker could only pull my 300 lb. butt up a hill in 1st gear, but now it will go right up in 2nd and even shift into 3rd on the way up. A huge improvement! The griz woke right up and seemed to lose a lot of the flat spot that started around 50 mph. Now it doesn't level out until 61 or 62 and top ends at 64 to 65.
I have found that the exhaust isn't the major restriction on the griz. It is the air box. I put 12 uni vents in the airbox lid and jumped up 4 jet sizes from the 155 dj recommends for a pipe to a 175dj main. That is like a 190 mikuni with the more tapered needle. I believe that the airbox mod should yield easily as much power gains as a pipe would. I did the pipe first and noticed a slight change, but it really didn't become a monster until the airbox mod.
There is a point that the incoming air will be more than the engine can pass and then the pipe becomes necessary to get more power.
I hate spending money also, but the power kits are worth the money. Even if you just go with a Uni and the kit, you would probably get more out of it. Just my opinion. Take it for what it is worth.