I used Zubby's technique...install the bolt and torque to spec, then tighten the pin to spec, then the lock nut. Get this...the spec for the pin is 6 ft/lbs; I checked the manual twice to make sure. That's just a little tighter than hand tightening. I figured some engineer probably spent a few days in front of his computer designing/figuring that out, so I went by the book and tightened it to 6 ft/lbs. I then tightened down the locknut to spec. Everything seems good from there. The rear suspension moves freely and there are no funny noises. Oh, I also regreased the swingarm bearings while I had things apart.

 

OK, I thought you meant you torqued that pin to the same spec as the nut! Yea, that 6 ft./lbs. is really meant to just take the side - to- side slop out.

If you haven't already, get yourself a 3/8" drive, in./lb. torque wrench. You can take those small ft./lb. ratings and multiply by 12 to convert to inch lbs. So, 6 ft./lb. = 72 in./lb.

Glad you got it back together and all seems OK.

 

That's not a bad idea! I'll look into getting one of those.

I'm happy too! I can now move on to other things with the quad....like replacing a few fasteners and installing the new OEM airbox....

 

My 2000 Kodiak did the same thing and repairing it took the same actions listed in this thread. It's definitely a pain to remove the U-joint but with patience and a good C-clamp it can be done. It's been a year since the repair with no signs of leakage so I consider this one a success!