My 1999 wolverine was using a lot of oil last summer, and I couldn't figure out where the oil was going. I finally figured it out when I pulled the rubber boot back that covers the driveshaft going to the rearend, and a wave of engine oil came pouring out. I ended up taking the swingarm off, and after a big struggle, managed to remove the universal joint and replace a faulty seal at the back of the engine. Now seven months later, it appears to be doing the same thing all over again. Has anyone else encountered this problem before?

 

Well, I've got a '95 and it's never done it nor has it had the seal replaced - still on the original.

Sounds like a positive pressure thing. Make sure the breather hose from the head's timing chain access cover has free flow to the airbox snorkel. If it's plugged, the only way for the engine to release pressure (as it needs to do when the oil warms up and expands) is to force a leak somewhere else.

Hope this helps.

 

No, the first thing I checked was that the breather hose wasn't plugged up. Hopefully you'll never run into this problem, because it's a major pain to change this seal. Unfortunately, when I bought this machine from a local dealership a year and a half ago, I ended up buying someone elses headache. I've been having really bad luck with it so far, and this is just one of a few current problems with it.

It also smokes on startup. Even after having the topend rebuilt, boring it out .010" oversize and installing a new piston along with new valve seals, it still smokes....but that's another story.

Another quick question. When you check the oil on this machine, are you supposed to screw the dipstick in all the way, or check it by just sticking the dipstick in unscrewed?

 

don't screw the dipstick in, just put it in as far as it will go without twisting it

 

Sorry to bump an old thread. I just discovered this issue with my machine as well. How difficult is it to change out this seal? What's involved?

Are any special tools needed to remove the swingarm bolts? I noticed the one on the right side had a spot in the middle for an allen wrench.

 

Anyone? I'd like to order the seal tomorrow and start on the teardown. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

This will be no easy task. If you have a good set of tools, some mechanical know-how and patience, then you shall succeed.

You will need to remove the swing arm - completely. The allen socket in the pivot studs will allow you to pull them out. Make sure the brake caliper has been removed (leaven the line attached) and hung from the rear grab bar - this will allow you to drag the swing arm out of the way.

The splined shaft that runs inside the swingarm will sperate from the u-joing knuckle or the rear final drive - doesn't matter as they are both splined and do not have keepers.

The hardest thing you will have to do is remove the u-joint spider so that you can get onto the nut that holds the u-joing knuckle to the engine drive shaft - I'd highly recommend replacing the u-joint since you have to tear it apart anyway! Did I say I'd recommend replacing it?

Once you've got a socket on the nut, take the front drive shaft cover off and stick a prybar into the u-joint knuckle and wedge it against the frame - this will allow you to really crank on the rear u-joint nut to break it loose. It's one solid shaft from front to rear so no fear of stripping any gears - I would suggest putting your bike in neutral so that you can easily turn things over in order to get the required position on the front drive shaft.

Going back together only has one hick-up and that's the rear swingarm pivot stud setting - I'll have to check my book on the proceedure. I'd also recommend replacing the swingarm bearings if there is even a hint of wear - ie, feel just a tad gritty or turn hard or are rusty. If you get the swingarm back in place with the shaft boot, You'll understand just how difficult that part is and won't want to tear it apart again.

Hope this helps.

I've tagged this post so if you need help, ask here and I'll get an e-mail as I don't check the boards everyday.

Also, if you need parts, I recommend www.metricpowersports.com

 

Thanks for the reply! I really appreciate it! I've been reading the service manual, but figured someone with first hand experience would be very helpful.

1) How does one separate the U joint bearings while the engine is still in the frame? The manual says to use a press...of course, they have the engine out of the fram and disassembled.

2) Is is possible to remove the 4 bolts that hold the bearing housing to the engine and pull out the entire assembly for servicing?

Oh, I can only imagine the "joy" that awaits me when installing that "boot" that connects the swing tube to the engine. I tried buttoning that up yesterday after I found the leak. What a PITA! The thing is like an inch too big...no mater how I put the retainer clip/band on, I always had a gap and could not get it to seal.

 

lol... can I recommend a new boot? Constant contact with oil will always make them swell.

The u-joints have c-clips on them. I recommend removing them and then driving one bearing cap towards the other with a blunt punch - almost as large as the endcap itself. Might I also suggest having a buddy hold a socket just large enough for the opposing cap to fit into against the back of the yoke. This will ease the impact afflicted to the case bearing.

I don't think you can remove the shaft - well, at least without having one end or the other completely disassembled. Since you will definately be replacing the seal, you might do some good with a propane torch on the yoke. Try to heat the yoke, and not the bearing cap. I suppose if you were to dis-assemble the front end, you might be able to pull it all backwards, but then you end up disecting both ends. I'd go at it from the rear and see if you make any progress.

Good Luck.

 

I was able to pull the rear end of tonight in abou an hour and 20 minutes. The impact wrench made short work of the swingarm bolt and retaining nut on the other side. Something tells me, putting it together will take a bit longer and require another set of hands.

Is that mid shaft pressed into the bearing in the bearing holder? Is that what would prevent the entire housing from coming out? The manual "kinda" make it look like it'll slide out once the four bolts are removed.