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wolverine fuel/air

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  #11  
Old 04-17-2007, 10:21 PM
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Default wolverine fuel/air

Okay I didn't get down to the garage to take a pic but I found out that it's called a fuel screw.

Here is a nice post from the HMF Forums indicating what it is and how to adjust it:

ALL new machines both on and off road must pass EPA emissions tests.
BEFORE you do ANYTHING involving jetting or tuning do this FIRST.
You need to set the fuel screw (on the bottom of the carb between the float bowl and the intake manifold) which is usually up in a tube cast into the carb body. You will need a narrow flat blade screw driver to do this.

Some people have been just going "3 turns out" or something like that..
You need to bottom the screw (lightly don't crank it down, you'll ruin it) and while the machine is running (it should be warmed up) turn it out from bottomed out to where you get the HIGHEST SMOOTH idle. It will get hi idle then start to get rough..turn it back in until it is smooth. Then set your regular idle to where you like it.

Adjusting the fuel screw will also tell you if you are too rich or lean in the pilot jet. OUT will RICHEN the mixture and IN will LEAN the mixture.

EXAMPLE: If you are at approx. 3.5 turns out from bottomed on the fuel screw this means that the adjustability of the fuel screw is at it's maximum (it will unscrew completely at approx. 5.0 turns out), you will need to go RICHER on the pilot jet.
If you are 1.5 turns out on the fuel screw that means you are at it's minimum (almost bottomed out), this means you are too RICH on the pilot jet and need lean out the pilot jet.

IF you do change the pilot jet to a different size be sure to RE SET the fuel screw to its highest smooth idle then set the regular idle screw to where you like it.

You should also re set the fuel screw whenever the temperature or humidity change. (say 90 degrees one day and 55 the next)

On the TOP end of the RPM range if things seem to be running bad DO THIS FIRST.
Get up to the RPM area where you think things are running bad and hold the throttle at a constant position, let the engine settle into that RPM then slowly back off the throttle...if the RPM seems to pick up and the machine runs better you are too LEAN and need to richen the main jet.
OR you can (while keeping the trouble RPM steady) pull the choke, if things get BETTER you are too LEAN and need to richen the mixture, if it gets WORSE you are too RICH and need to lean the mixture.

sO, don't get all flustered when you add a pipe or filter and it won't run. Do the above and you'll be on the right track

In MOST cases (because of that EPA static emissions test) you will be LEAN on both the fuel screw AND pilot jet.
Remember rich is good lean is bad.
Welcome to the world of high performance !
 
  #12  
Old 04-18-2007, 09:50 AM
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Default wolverine fuel/air

Good info!

However, i can not find this screw on the carb or on the diagram. Could you please point it out for me on the diagram. link attached

http://www.powerpartsplus.com/pages/.../2/yamaha.aspx

Thanks much
 
  #13  
Old 04-18-2007, 10:53 AM
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Default wolverine fuel/air

I checked there previously and if it's in that picture I cannot see which one it is.

Did you check on your carb? It's real easy to see there.

Originally posted by: Quinn
Good info!

However, i can not find this screw on the carb or on the diagram. Could you please point it out for me on the diagram. link attached

http://www.powerpartsplus.com/pages/.../2/yamaha.aspx

Thanks much
 
  #14  
Old 04-18-2007, 12:06 PM
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Default wolverine fuel/air

well after countless hours of messnig with the fuel air screw i think i've came to the conclusion that i hydro-locked the motor and when it happened it probably bent my exhaust valve. which sucks pretty bad. but we'll see about that. i'm going to mess with it a little bit more but then the head is coming off. anyone have any experience doing this. i have a feeling it's going to be a pain in the butt.
 
  #15  
Old 04-18-2007, 12:21 PM
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Default wolverine fuel/air

Well if the head has to come off anyway it sounds like time for a NEW CAM whoo hooo and maybe a hi-comp piston or a big bore if anyone has one available yet.

[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] you might as well kill 2 birds with one stone, perfect excuse for a new modification.
 
  #16  
Old 04-18-2007, 02:06 PM
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Default wolverine fuel/air

well i know webcam offers a camshaft listed for the kodiaks 450 but dont know of any pistons yet
 
  #17  
Old 04-18-2007, 02:16 PM
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Default wolverine fuel/air

guys did a quick search and i found a piston for the wolvy check it out

http://www.jepistons.com/cat/je/powe...50_rhino.shtml
 
  #18  
Old 04-18-2007, 05:45 PM
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Default wolverine fuel/air

Nice! I am thinking a 440cc kit would perk things up a little! lol
 
  #19  
Old 04-18-2007, 06:08 PM
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Default wolverine fuel/air

Yhea but I am thinking a 500 would be even better [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
 
  #20  
Old 04-18-2007, 06:26 PM
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Default wolverine fuel/air

yeah but a 500 will need to be a stroker kit correct?
 


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