Alrighty guys, I've got around $1000 to spend on the Warrior, and this is what I have lined up.

HMF Sport Exhaust Pipe
FMF Powerbomb Header
HotCams Stage 2 Cam
K&N Filter - Going to drill the lid
12 tooth front sprocket
Performance CDI Box

Any ideas on what kinds of gains that will net me? I am all stock, right now. Also wanting to shove a new carb down her while I have it torn down, any reccomendations would be appreciated. Also, if you see anything I should change on my list there please let me know! I am a trail rider, looking to get those low-mid gains. Of course, more top end never hurts either [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

Thanks!

 

That all looks like a good place to start, maybe look into getting the head and intake ported to make those cams pay off.

 

I am thinking headwork for a later date when I've got more funds to play with. I was looking at the Edelbrock carb for this thing, but they run around $400. Would that be a worthy investment to let this thing gulp the air it may want?

 

Also, I want to go ahead and stick some new valve springs in with that cam, any recommendations?

 

My opinion on your list: The HMF is good, the FMF header is a waste of money, the Hotcam is a waste of money, K&N is good with the drilled lid, 12 tooth is a waste of time, and the CDI is a waste of money on the Warrior. The FMF is a waste because it's not going to be any better than the factory pipe. The Hotcam is a waste because it doesn't have the lift or duration of other cams, like Webcam, therfore you don't have to get heavy duty valve springs with the Hotcam, but the Hotcam was designed this way for ease of installation. If you are going to get heavy duty valve springs anyway, I would recommend the .430" Webcam. The 12 tooth is a waste because with these new mods, your engine is going to rev a lot quicker, so you really need to go up on the front with a 14 tooth. These mods with a 12 tooth will make you go through the gears very quickly and reach 6th too fast, then it will rev too high on top and you will only be going around 55 mph. Not to mention 1st gear will just about be useless. A Warrior doesn't have a rev limiter, so the CDI won't gain anything. They say the Dynatek will change the power curve, but I never had one. If I were you I would get the Slip-on, Webcam, Valve springs, filter, 14 sprocket, and a JE 366cc 10.5:1 piston. If you do all the work yourself and with about $100 in machine shop charges, this should keep you in your budget and run with slightly modified 400 EX's.

 

I have to get a new header anyway, as mine is rusted. Any recommendations on what to get, then?

 

I guess i'll add my 2 cents to this.

The HMF is a worthwhile investment, although the only benefits of the fmf headers is really just looks, you could save some money and get a used stock header for dirt cheap if the one you have is rusted out.

The only cdi's that are worth anything on warriors are dyna cdi's, which run in the $350+ range, so not the most cost effective mod for a mostly stock machine. The cheaper cdi's offer no real benefits on a warrior, and just decrease your reliability.

Don't buy a stock-style drop in k&n, the best thing to do is to abandon the flawed drop-in filter design and get a pro-design clamp-on filter kit. You still maintain your airbox, and you can use the lid if you want, but the big benefit of this kit is that it eliminates the possibility of sucking in dirt because the filter wasn't installed properly. Getting that stock filter in the wrong was is very easy to do, as you can't see if the filter is in right since the lid is what holds it in. The k&n drop-ins are also known to start coming unglued after a few wash and use cycles.

As far as other power modifications, one alone usually doesn't offer much of a benefit. Like with just a cam, the stock carb will be a bottleneck and the low compression stock piston won't take full advantage of the added flow of the cam.

For the sprocket, I really discourage you to go with a smaller front sprocket. The warrior geared too low from the factory to begin with (in my opinion) and unless you really need the lower gearing for the kind of riding you do, all it's going to do is make you shift more and slow you down. If anything, go a tooth higher than stock on the front and get a little more top end speed out of it.

As far as the carburetor, the edelbrock is a big investment, but I have one and I feel it was probably one of the single most worthwhile modifcations I have done, mainly because it gets rid of a lot of the little shortcomings the stock carbs have, like the weak accelerator pump and the intake manifold that's always splitting. On top of that you get some killer throttle response and a noticable power gain once tuned in right.

You didn't mention anything else you had modified on your warrior so far, so i'd suggest a good solid aftermarket skid plate for at least your swingarm, maybe the full chassis skid too if you ride in rougher terrain. Nerf bars are always a good idea as well. And if you still have stock tires, for god's sake trash them and get something good on it. It also may be worth considering a little suspension work. If you don't have much left in your budget, stock banshee shocks can be had for cheap on ebay, and will give you a smoother ride and more adjustability. Stock warrior shocks are pogo sticks.

 

start with a 12 tooth for quicker take off and more torque...then see if you really need more...you can send me the 990 bucks left over if it will make you feel better

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: STRAIGHTUPDAHILL

start with a 12 tooth for quicker take off and more torque...then see if you really need more...you can send me the 990 bucks left over if it will make you feel better</end quote></div>

I highly disagree. Unless you're going to be towing a boat with your warrior, there's no reason for lower gearing. More torque, you say? The warrior has more torque than a John Deere. Quicker take-off? I don't know how you ride, but I can get a better launch with higher gearing. Lower gearing just makes you shift more and spin easier off the line, and slows you down about 5 mph on the top end. I have taller tires than stock, higher gearing than stock, and I still launch in 2nd gear in drag races. Lower gearing is just going to slow a warrior down. I tried it and hated it.

 

i guess you drive in the flatlands