I decided to buy a new battery hooked it up backwards.I do not see a fuse, even though it shows one on the schematics,now it wont start. What did I burn out and how costly will it be?

 

there should be a fuse in a little plastic cover attached to the positive cable (red). and it should be in a rubber holder attached to the frame. if there is no fuse in there your bike won't start. if it's blown it needs to be replaced.

 

I looked for the fuse there . I see the rubber holder on the frame but it look like it has been bypassed somehow. now i do not think it has a fusible link.I know thats bad.Also when I stop cranking it ,it floods the carb and gas starts dumping out the bottom of the air filter housing.What do you think? also what can i do to check for spark to the plug?

 

to check for spark do the following: take out spark plug, then plug it back in and rest it on the frame or motor somewhere. as long as it's on metal this will create a ground point. then turn the key and switch on and crank the motor over. if you don't see the blue spark from the plug you have no spark. if you do see a spark then you have spark. sometimes you have to really look hard if your doing it in alot of light such as daytime.

yea if they bypassed the fuse that's not a good thing. because that can cause the wires to run hotter and it could burn the wires out. check along the wire harness and all other wires for burn marks or melted rubber.

if your carb is flooding it's self out and it's flowing out of the air housing the floats are probably stuck or need to be adjusted. and the carb may need a good cleaning. such as the jets, all moving parts, and passage ways. if you open the air box lid you may find gas sitting in there from it flooding out if it's that bad.

 

I checked for spark and everything is good there,thanks for your help by the way,it is still flooding itself out,what do I do for the adjustment of the carbs.Is there adjustment screw for the carbs or should i buy a manual? I see a couple of screws but do not want to start turning stuff.

 

a manual would be a big help. the two screws don't have anything to do with it flooding it's self out. the one under the carb infront of the motor is the air/fuel mixture screw. that determines your air/fuel mixture going into the motor. the other one on the left side of the carb is the idel speed screw. that determines how fast or slow your idel is. the only thing that i can think of that can cause your carb to flood is the float in the float bowl.

before you start tearing into the carb here's a small test you can do to check your float level. take off the over flow hose on the bottom of the carb and attach a clear piece of tube to the stem you just took the hose off of. make sure it's long enough so you can hold it up above the carb but don't kink it at the bottom. now open the screw on the side of the bowl. (right behind where the hose is comming out) you will see gas starting ot fill the hose. when it stops blow into the hose to get the air out. the gas will refill the hose. if it stops right at the line where the bowl seperates from the carb then your float height is correct. if it's above or below that line then it needs to be adjusted. if it needs to be adjusted do the follwing...................

the float bowl is on the bottom of the carb and is held on by 4 small screws. if you take that off that's where your float is. to adjust it you have to push the float pin out and then the float comes right off. but don't lose the little valve neddle that's hanging from the float. the little metal tab that the valve neddle is hanging on is where you adjust your float height. you have to bend it gently with a screw driver. when your done you have to check it to make sure it's right. you have to take the carb off to do this.

 

hey i have a 98 warrior the only way i could turn it on is by turning the key and putting a screwdriver on the relay u know the 2screws by touching them together ive tried everything.