when you start working on bottom ends on motors you should clean all oil passages, check oil pump (there is a shear pin that can break in the oil pump) and on stroker motors you must check head to piston deck clearance, trust me Ive learned the hard way to. and don't be afraid to ask a lot of questions before you start it up

 

just wondering did that hot rods stroker crank kit make a big difference in power

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: nopanicmechanic

just wondering did that hot rods stroker crank kit make a big difference in power</end quote></div>

Don't know about the Hot Rods, but I had a FST stroked 446 Warrior that made a lot of difference in power, but for the price, I could have sold the Warrior and bought something that already had more power from the factory like a 450 or 660. I think the Hot Rods kit is only 396 cc

 

The stroker kit itself won't cause your noise, but the new cam will. Did you set the lash on the valves so spec with the new cam? If not there will be extra noise at the valves, but the new radical cam will make more noise all on it's own.

 

naw dont worry bout it i and a couple of friends all have warriors and they all make a knocking noise idk what it is but they all make it some louder than others

 

hay man i just got a 89 350 warrior and i'm trying to do some top end work on it like new piston and rings.i'v taken the top end off and have discoverd that the conecting rod has some play in it.i'm not sure if this is normal or not.. could some one give me some addvice on this...thanx for your time...
p.s i'm new to this site and not sure how it all works but i hope some one can help me out...

 

best thing i can tell you is to get a manual and check the clearences to see if its too much play. it is supposed to have some play side to side but there shouldnt be any up and down play.

 

hay thanks man...i do have a manuel for it so i will look it up...what happend is the piston blow a chunk off the bottem end of it everything is clean as far as damage inside the wall..but i was thinking that the play in the rod does go alitel side to side but it also twist a bit..i'm hoping i can just replace the pistone and rings with a wizco set up high comprestion and go from there...if i do have to replace the crank bearings do i have to split the case or is there a way to do it with out....this is my first quad and i dont know much about it....thankx agian for your time...realy.

 

Normally you would start a new post by clicking on "new topic" instead of changing the subject of a current topic. But this is an old post so who cares?

Like 91Warrior said, the connecting rod will slide from left to right, but check it by trying to move the rod up and down on it's lower bearing. There should be no play in the bearing in the up-n-down motion. The bearing should be free and the crank should spin easily. Be careful and don't let the timing chain fall into the lower engine. It sucks to get it out!

JE piston's are better for the Warrior than Wiseco, 10.5:1 compression will still allow you to run 93 octane fuel, where the 12:1 will require race fuel.

You have to split the cases to remove the crank - there's no way around it.

 

If there is side to side play i would also check the pisten pin play and if there is play in both, u will need to replacing the whole crank, i blew a chunk out of my top end in my 03 and split the piston.