Sooo, traded my street bike for my cousins 2005 grizzly 660, went on my first quad rally ever a couple weeks ago, realized the benefit of snorkels. So I did the obvious required plumbing (extended the air box up through the gas tank cover and put the clutch intake/exhaust thru the front rack).

Went out today and found the deepest hole I could (not nessacarily on purpose). I had water over the front rack but not over the snorkels, however still filled the engine full of water.

So now I need to know two things, 1.) what all should be done to get the water out of where ever it may have gotten and 2.) what other hoses and such need to be extended up above the water.

I'm pretty sure the clutch stayed dry so I'll just pull the cover and check that out. I drained the engine oil and will change it a couple more times, should I change the filter before or after or both or at all?

As far as getting the thing water proof, I was just wondering how many more breathers off of differentials, carbs, tranny, etc. need to be extended.

Thanks in advance for any input.

 

You need to check your intake snorkel. Its obviously leaking.

I like to pressure check mine or also know as a boost leak test in the Turbo car world.

Make a cap with a air compressor fitting on it that will cap off your intake snorkel.

Turn your air compressor down to 20psi and hook it up to your snorkle.
Then use soapy water in a spray bottle. or my fav is kids bubble maker stuff.. Spray it on Every connection and look for bubbles..
If you see any its a leak and will suck water. use Black RTV to seal it.

Also every one of your carb, Differential and crank case breather lines need to be run up into your display podOr in their own "simulated snorkel with a 180 turn down on the end.. they need to be coverd from any flying mud.
To be on the safe side. you should also T fitting them at the carb or what ever vent your hooking them to.
I run a 6" line from the vent to the T fitting in a loop. that is higher than the fitting on the bike. this creates a pressure difference between the upper and lower hoses and will NOT allow water to enter the part. Even when sitting with a dead engine in 4 foot water.
Run a smaller hose down and a larger hose up top. This will force the bike to breath out the top. while still allowing any water that gets in to the system from the top to drain out bottom.

To clean out the water in the engine. Theres 2 methods commonly used.
First drain the engine...

One method is to fill the crankcase and tranny with diesel fuel. It absorbs water like a sponge.
second is to do the old tried and true method of filling the tranny and crankcase with new CHEAP! oil and draining it until no more milked oil comes out. this method uses ALOT of oil. and ruins many many filters.

Me I do both. and use a Old non milked oil filter while flushing.
What alot of ppl dont realize is that todays ATV oil filters can be reused many times.
I wash mine in hot water and the best Liquid dish soap you can get. until its almost new looking. use the dunk and rinse method.
then use your air compressor at 30psi to dry it. DONOT get the air nozzle to close to the filter element or it WILL blow a hole through it!

Start keeping some old oil from your car or truck. filter it through coffee filter a few times. Then use that oil to fluch your ATV when you milk it. This will save you a TON of cash on oil.

 

Wow! That's an amazing response. I used all the oil I had in the garage last night and it still looked like a trip to the can after Cinco-de-mayo coming out of there, I'll give the diesel a try.
I'm not sure I understand what you're saying on the vent lines though. Do you mean that starting from the vent fitting on the diff for example, I should run up and loop back down and into the straight through of the tee and then terminate the other side of the straight through down, this leaves the side outlet of the tee pointing up, I would then run up the the display and 180 down. Is that the idea or am I way off base? Sorry, I'm just a little slow sometimes.
Thanks for the quick and very helpful reply.

 

So yea, I have read the forum - very useful information I might add. After one flush with diseal, the crankcase looked so much better. Pulled all drainage plugs that I could find. Drained all fuel. Pulled spark plug, airfilter and baffle for muffler. Pulled oilfilter cleaned with diseal & reinstalled. Turned engine manually by pull rope. Drained diseal, replaced with cheap oil. Cleaned oil filter once more. Electric cranked engine, did so until no water/gas came out of sparkplug hole. Inserted new sparkplug attempted to start motor - cranks but never starts. Sounds like there maybe water build up in the exhaust system. Is there anything else I can drain/do?

Grizzly 660

 

Well......... i doubt there is still water in the exhaust but never a bad idea to check, take the pipe loose from the motor and blow some air through it with an air hose if nothing come out and everything seems free then...... i would start with the ignition system, simple test (with the key on) Pull the spark plug out of the head (with the wire still connected to plug) Let it rest against the block (so it can make ground) turn the engine over. No spark no ignition. Check Switch, Batt, Wires,stater,coil/computer. If you have spark then i would try step 3: (and the most likely in my opinion: Given that water entered a hot engine it is very possible that you may have lost compression. You can test this relatively easy with a compression tester. (usually they are free to use with a deposit at some auto parts store like Advance or Oreillys) With the spark plug out screw the tester in and turn the engine over, this should give you your compression readings, check with your local dealer for specs or a service Manuel.

 

Ok so,
Laugh at my paint skills all you guys want.. Im useing a touch pad on a laptop.


The loops in the lines was a bad Idea. I actually got into some deep stuff after I re-hosed my atv this week. and got some water into the loops. Major pain in the ****!
Dont know why I didnt realize what I told you. But the vents on the carb actually breath. In and out. Figured the loops would stop the water (inbetween the carb and T fittings).
Well the loops held water and caused the bike to act like it had a 2k rev limiter. Bad Idea!!LOL

You do however want the T fittings Lower than the port they plug into on the carb.
This WILL inshure that water will not get into the carb as the water will have to go uphill to get in.
And due to the T fittings the water will go straight down IF entering from the Top and through the check valve.
The check valves will prevent water from entering the carb from the bottom if you are sitting Idle or driving through water over the carb.

The crank case or head breather Operates the same way. Just put the check valve Lower than the location its connected to. The father down on the check valves the better.

If you notice ANY performance loss or hitting a fake rev limiter remove the check valve on the side of the card, NOT the float bowl.
If you are riding along and go through some deep mud thats flying around. Then hit that fake rev limiter or starting running bad. Check your upper vent line that runs to the side of the carb, it IS clogged. Obove and below the T fitting. Simply Blow through it if you can or use compressed air.
By the way, If any of you guys remember me asking about the Fake rev limiter thing. This was my problem, Dont remember who said to check the lines, but you was right.


One other thing about flushing your engine. once you do atleast 2 or 3 flush's. you will want to fill the engine as mutch as you can. Top it off..

Then pull your plug wire from the sparkplug and turn the engine over a few times. NOT ALOT! maybe 5 seconds or so. to allow the deisal to travel up along the gears and into all of the bearings that the tranny shafts rotate in.. This will also force the deisal through the oil pump and push out all of the water in it as well up on top of the head.

You must always remember Needle bearings DONOT like to flush easily. The milked oil will stay in them. for a couple flushs. This is why your 2-4th flush (with deisal) you will rotate that engine atleast 5-10 seconds each time..
When I am rotating my engine, after a heavy milking. I leave my filter out to allow the milked oil to exit faster. just wipe it up with a paper towl.
Towards the end of the flushing, aka 5-7 use engine oil to better tell when the water is starting to really thin out.
Once you see the oil looking decent again. (will have Slight white lines in it from the water)
pop that filter back in and start rotating the engine longer. about 30seconds.
But Pay attention to your starter IF your electric start, for over heating, simply touch it. If cold, your good. If hot, let it cool until its cold again. DONOT burn up your starter!

Continue your flushing until your satisfied with the oil. aka no more water streaks coming out.

Then pop in your new or washed filter. fill with good oil and start the engine and let it idle for aprox 5 mins to get it fully oiled up inside so that Nothing is uncoated with oil so it will not rust or dryout.

This is my process.
I should have been alil more specific on the process on my first post.

We routinly drive through water nipple deep (this is where my 300ex starts floating withme on it in a full water wheelie)
I only milked my oil and fouled my carb when I flipped over once in deep water and Totaly went submarine on the second time.. Other than that. Never milked my oil.