I was riding my 350 and the throttle stuck, so i took both carbs apart, sanded the shaft of the needle, cleaned the carb jets ports bowls and air filter, didn't mess with any setting except the sync on top (must adjust after removing carbs every time), and now i dont get any gas past the bowl. if i spray the carbs with gas it runs great till it runs out!!! where is the gas adjustment screw???

 

ya the slides on those carbs are prone to sticking... whether it be a grain of sand or whatever... happens to me as well sometimes.

before you go messing with screw settings, i would take the carbs back out , take them apart and spray the living hell outa them with carb cleaner again, and make sure everything is in place. then i would even go as far as taking the pitcock out of the gas tank and cleaning out the gas tank gas filter. put it all back together and see if its still screwed.

 

i did what you said and still nothing. i get gas to the carb but not past it. i put new plugs in it and the stay dry. i used 2 cans of cleaner soaked the carbs and sprayed every port they are like new. how would i adjust the gas intake??

 

how does the fuel get sucked from the carb any1 know???

 

hmmm, i may be wrong (because i have never really had to mess with carbs settings as far as screws but i do not believe there is a screw for gas, only for air adjust, the gas part of it would be your pilots and jets allowing more gas to flow through with a bigger jet.

is the TORS system still on the carbs?? the big weird metal junk boxes on top of the carbs ??

here is a view of the carbs

Dillon Brothers' 2000 Yamaha ATV BANSHEE YFZ350M (5FK6) Parts List

 

yes it is there, and i have not takin it apart. all i did was remove the whole unit from the carb.

 

i would def. get a TORS eliminator kit... they arnt to much $$ . thats usually one of the very first mods people do to the banshee, becuase they mess up so much and are just crap.

this may not be your problem at the moment but will always be a problem down the road. heres a little material on the tors if you didnt know.

TORS is the Throttle OverRide System found on stock Banshees. It consists of the large boxy carb tops, a switch on the thumb throttle housing, a switch on the parking brake perch, and a control box mounted to the frame rail above the left cylinder. The function of the TORS is to limit engine RPM if the parking brake is engaged, or if the throttle is released and the carb slides don’t shut . If the switch at the parking brake senses that the parking brake is engaged, it tells the carb tops not to lift the carb slides. Similarly, if the switch at the thumb throttle senses that the thumb throttle has been released, the carb tops won’t lift the carb slides. The problem with the system is that often the switch on the parking brake perch will fail to sense that the parking brake is not engaged, and will then limit RPM (the motor won’t rev past idle); adjusting the switch is the first solution, eliminating the TORS is a better one. Other drawbacks to the TORS is that the carb tops are huge and makes jetting more time consuming, the entire system is one more thing that can (and usually will) fail, and the system adds unnecessary weight. Eliminating the TORS is well worth the effort.

 

also as far as your problem ... i dont understand why there wouldnt be gas going into the engine... when you push your thumb throttle(or whatever you have) it lifts the needle, this allows gas to come out of the hole (main jet that the needle go's into) and the engine sucks in the gas... from the movement of the piston ... like a vacuum. (this is my understanding of it.) so if there is nuthin blocking the holes there should be no reason it shouldnt be getting gas. i will have to check on the "gas screw" and see if there is one on there. other then that... all you need to run a engine is air, fuel, compression and spark i would check each one and make sure you have spark, and compression you know you have air.

 

You probably need to adjust the float heights in the carbs. somehow your floats aren't allowing the needle to open up. the float height needs to be adjusted every time you take the carbs apart. if the floats are set too low then there wont be enough fuel in the bowl and you risk burning up the engine. if theres too much then you will get fuel pouring out of the overflow tubes that dump near the lower rear shock mount.

Also did you take the float needle seat out to see if there was anything in there? can you get anything into the bowl if you spray carb cleaner into the fuel inlet on the carb?

 

you may have your float in upside down