Banshee Air Filter setup
#11
03-30-2001, 05:33 PM
Personally I feel the billet aluminum pro-flow is going to flow air much better that a piece of plastic, but I may be wrong... IF I recall, the plastic opening actually gets smaller as you move from the front of the stock setup to the rear of the stock setup, thus giving you even more air flow restriction, but again, I may be wrong...Adding an improved filter is not going to give you that much more air into the motor, especially when combined with an outerwear (which is mandatory), but the ability to move the air into the motor is where the pro flow has a distinct advantage over the stock setup. Dont get me wrong though, It sounds like Zorros setup is quite effective and If I were on a tighter budget, that is the route I would have taken. Either way, for $100 dollars its a pretty good bang for the buck purchase, not to mention piece of mind...
RoostKing...
RoostKing...
#12
03-30-2001, 06:52 PM
CROSSING A STREAM!!! This is a race machine not a boat. The filter system is comprised of a rubber "Y" that hooks both carbs together and then turns up to attach the filter on top. The following statement is meant to be read in a "G" rated sense... If you sit on the floor and spread your legs apart and your body is sitting up, that's how the filter system looks. Your feet attach to the carbs and the filter goes on your head. {if you're all done laughing now}
If you have the drain hose disconnected and plugged then you could go thru deeper water with the stock setup. But with the Toomey setup the filter actually sits higher than the carb inlets so technically you could probably go thru more water with the Toomey.
I go thru stuff no deeper than the footpegs and don't have any mud on the filter at all.
You be the judge.
If you have the drain hose disconnected and plugged then you could go thru deeper water with the stock setup. But with the Toomey setup the filter actually sits higher than the carb inlets so technically you could probably go thru more water with the Toomey.
I go thru stuff no deeper than the footpegs and don't have any mud on the filter at all.
You be the judge.
#13
04-01-2001, 12:46 AM
I looked at the difference between the airbox opening and the plastic ring size...they're the same...so there isn't much flow to be gained there. Actually, it's not perfect, so I cut it a little (like 1/8 of an inch on the top left "corner").
The advantage of the proflow is that it looks better.
Stream crossing...who said they weren't boats? Look at some pics on my site...and you'll see that I NEED the lid...hehe. Water reaches pretty high (had it 3" over the kickstarter twice)...but it is as fun as winning drag races.
The advantage of the proflow is that it looks better.
Stream crossing...who said they weren't boats? Look at some pics on my site...and you'll see that I NEED the lid...hehe. Water reaches pretty high (had it 3" over the kickstarter twice)...but it is as fun as winning drag races.
#15
04-01-2001, 12:01 PM
Just be extremely careful about ensuring that your stock airfilter is installed correctly. If you are at all confused as to how this works, ASK SOMEBODY! If installed incorrectly, you will suck dirt in and not only can you ruin a top end, but your crank and main bearings could be damaged as well. Save your money and when you have enough, get a Pro-Design setup. They are worth the investment.
#17
04-01-2001, 11:22 PM
#18
04-18-2012, 02:49 PM
Nice idea!
Keep the stock airbox and get a K&N w/ outerwear. Don't waste your money with a proflow.
The official K&N instructions say that you should cut the skeleton of the stock air filter (the plastic stuff), and keep only the round part (where you'resupposed to attach the filter). If you follow their instructions you will end up with the same setup as stock (which is no good).
Here's what I did. I cut the skeleton thing , (just remaining the big plastic ring). Then, I ripped off the little foam ring (mine was all destroyed). Then I cleaned the plastic ring well well well. Next step was putting the ring where it is supposed to go (w/out the air filter) in the airbox. Hold it firmly down and pressed against the airbox(you can put some silicone between, if you want...but I didn't), and drill 3-4 holes on the superior flat part. Put 3-4 pop rivets in the holes...and that's it! It's fixed on the airbox...you just need to slip the K&N on and tighten the collar to ride! I say I saved over 100$ with this "trick". Oh yeah, you have to cut 2 little plastic legs (that usually hold the back of the filter) off the lid.
If you want pics, just email me.
The official K&N instructions say that you should cut the skeleton of the stock air filter (the plastic stuff), and keep only the round part (where you'resupposed to attach the filter). If you follow their instructions you will end up with the same setup as stock (which is no good).
Here's what I did. I cut the skeleton thing , (just remaining the big plastic ring). Then, I ripped off the little foam ring (mine was all destroyed). Then I cleaned the plastic ring well well well. Next step was putting the ring where it is supposed to go (w/out the air filter) in the airbox. Hold it firmly down and pressed against the airbox(you can put some silicone between, if you want...but I didn't), and drill 3-4 holes on the superior flat part. Put 3-4 pop rivets in the holes...and that's it! It's fixed on the airbox...you just need to slip the K&N on and tighten the collar to ride! I say I saved over 100$ with this "trick". Oh yeah, you have to cut 2 little plastic legs (that usually hold the back of the filter) off the lid.
If you want pics, just email me.
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