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Grizzly 350 Major Electrical Issue!

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Old 07-05-2020, 05:49 PM
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Default Grizzly 350 Major Electrical Issue!

Howdy Again, I just made a previous post titled "Neutral & Reverse Light No Function" addressing the ongoing problem with the N & R lights, electric start ect, and what I've done so far to correct it...which was unplug everything under the seat, then re-plug everything with the addition of a new volt regulator and new solenoid...Searching for further diagnosis I discovered that the new volt regulator that was just installed is proving to have gone bad through testing forward bias...Can anyone out there provide me with a diagnosis and hopefully a fix for these onging electrical issues?
 
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Old 07-07-2020, 03:33 AM
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"I discovered that the new volt regulator that was just installed is proving to have gone bad through testing forward bias"

No idea what that statement means. "I aint no electrician" but a voltage reg that shows up to 14.5v across the battery with engine running, and a lower voltage with engine stopped, is working. Sometimes an ampage leak can occur through them, which causes the battery to run down when the bike isn't being used, tested for by fitting an ammeter to a battery terminal and seeing if there is a current leak with ignition off.

You would be far better posing everything which is linked about your machine in one thread.
 
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Old 07-07-2020, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by merryman
"I discovered that the new volt regulator that was just installed is proving to have gone bad through testing forward bias"

No idea what that statement means. "I aint no electrician" but a voltage reg that shows up to 14.5v across the battery with engine running, and a lower voltage with engine stopped, is working. Sometimes an ampage leak can occur through them, which causes the battery to run down when the bike isn't being used, tested for by fitting an ammeter to a battery terminal and seeing if there is a current leak with ignition off.

You would be far better posing everything which is linked about your machine in one thread.
Forward and Reverse Bias testing is using a multimeter to test a VR...with multimeter on diode testing, you put the negative lead on the positive VR terminal and you use the positive lead to test each output pin from the rectifier...This is forward bias testing...meter should read between .4 and .6.....Reverse Bias is doing the opposite with your multimeter leads...Reverse bias testing should all read OL
 
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