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1986 yfm225 electrical issues

Old Aug 16, 2021 | 07:54 PM
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Casey Lynch's Avatar
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Default 1986 yfm225 electrical issues

I can't get it to turn over. Electric start. The neutral light wont come on, unless I disconnect wire from neutral switch and touch it to battery negative. I thought maybe neutral switch was bad, but then when I push start button, the square relay will pull in, but the starter solenoid wont. I put power to the starter solenoid and it will pull in, just not when it's connected up. I checked the small glass fuse, as well as the larger 40amp fuse good. I checked the contacts good on the run switch. Like I said, the start button will activate the relay when the neutral switch is bypassed, but the starter solenoid won't pull in. I've got the plastics all pulled off and I traced the wiring harness for signs of damage. None noticeable. Anyone run into this issue? It was running fine, and when I went to start it an hour after riding, it was just dead. I also checked battery, as well as swapped it out with a brand new one. It seems like there has got to be a bad connection somewhere that's common to the neutral switch and the starter solenoid. I unplugged and cleaned all the plugs I could find.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2021 | 01:52 AM
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Seems like a bad earth. Yams are rather prone to the earth onto frame not connecting, looks fine but if you remove, clean and put back, it starts working. Check all earths though.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2021 | 05:48 AM
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Originally Posted by merryman
Seems like a bad earth. Yams are rather prone to the earth onto frame not connecting, looks fine but if you remove, clean and put back, it starts working. Check all earths though.
I will try that out. The negative battery lead bolts right to the frame near the tail light. I wasn't sure if that's the factory spot for it, that's how it was when I bought it. Might even run leads to the different sections of the frame to get a better ground to battery. I thought that it seems like a weird spot to land the negative, since it's not really part of the main frame. I bet that does the trick. I will update later today.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2021 | 02:00 PM
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Well sir, it turns out that your intuition was correct. I didn't think it was the earth connection to the frame, since I had just replaced it with a brand new lug and cable from the battery, but sure enough! I loosened the bolt holding the lug to the frame, wiggled the lug and tightened it back down. Fired right up.since I had all the plastics off, I went ahead and took the carb out and gave it a good clean. Going to put it back in after work tonight and see if it runs better than before. It got too late to test last night. Prior to electrical issue It ran fine, except would bog down when punching the throttle from idle. I noticed the overflow was dripping gas. I reset the floats to close with fuel actually below the overflow now. I had that happen before. Kind of curious how it would work itself back to letting it overflow again. I can't imagine the floats pushing up against the valve hard enough to bend the tab over, but it's back to the proper adjustment. All gunk removed from jets , air filter cleaned and oiled. Also noticed that the air filter cap had come off inside the air filter box, probably letting in tons of dirt and too much air into the carb. Can't wait to tune it up and see if I get some better throttle response! I'll post results soon. Thanks again!
 
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