Raptor 660R starter relay buzzing even after replacing almost everything.
#1
Raptor 660R starter relay buzzing even after replacing almost everything.
Hello, I have been trying to assess this problem I have on a recently acquired 2002 Raptor 660R. I cannot get the starter to turn over by pressing the starter button on the handle bars, the starter relay makes a very faint buzzing and sometimes a light click.
I have replaced : Wiring harness, headlight switch (with starter button), Starter relay, Starter, One way clutch (engine spins freely), battery from a friends running '03 660R, and a couple other maintenance items.
I've tried reading all the forums regarding buzzing / clicking relay and it either leads to them saying it's a bad relay or battery, which I have replaced both. I have also checked and cleaned the two grounds (one on left side of motor, one by headlights) and still got nothing, I have the dash off so I'm not sure which lights are turning on when I press the starter button. Also I have made sure all connections are tight.
With key on I have 1 solid light (neutral?) and then when I press the starter button a second comes on (I think coolant test light), but when I am holding down the starter button both lights start to dim heavily.
Also, when I bridge the positive terminals on the starter relay with a screwdriver the start spins strong, which I saw people saying was a symptom of a bad relay, although this one I have is a 1PZ straight out of the box.
I have replaced : Wiring harness, headlight switch (with starter button), Starter relay, Starter, One way clutch (engine spins freely), battery from a friends running '03 660R, and a couple other maintenance items.
I've tried reading all the forums regarding buzzing / clicking relay and it either leads to them saying it's a bad relay or battery, which I have replaced both. I have also checked and cleaned the two grounds (one on left side of motor, one by headlights) and still got nothing, I have the dash off so I'm not sure which lights are turning on when I press the starter button. Also I have made sure all connections are tight.
With key on I have 1 solid light (neutral?) and then when I press the starter button a second comes on (I think coolant test light), but when I am holding down the starter button both lights start to dim heavily.
Also, when I bridge the positive terminals on the starter relay with a screwdriver the start spins strong, which I saw people saying was a symptom of a bad relay, although this one I have is a 1PZ straight out of the box.
#2
Seized engine, seized starter, bad battery, or a bad connection, usually on thick wires from battery. You have changed battery and starter, and say engine is free, so it is a bad connection. I don't know the Raptor, but some Yams have weirdly complex lock-outs for the starter, so it is just possible a wire connector or relay on the lock-out has high resistance. However it can be almost anywhere in the circuits. I usually test for power using a 12v incandescent test lamp, as you can get volts showing on a meter, with no power backing them up. With tricky starter problems, I start at the thin wires to the solenoid, with ignition on, you should get pos to one thin and neg to the other, with start button pressed. Check which one is low power, and follow it back to the fault. With Yam multipin plugs on the solenoid, it is more difficult to do this, but you have to start at one end, and work back.
#3
Seized engine, seized starter, bad battery, or a bad connection, usually on thick wires from battery. You have changed battery and starter, and say engine is free, so it is a bad connection. I don't know the Raptor, but some Yams have weirdly complex lock-outs for the starter, so it is just possible a wire connector or relay on the lock-out has high resistance. However it can be almost anywhere in the circuits. I usually test for power using a 12v incandescent test lamp, as you can get volts showing on a meter, with no power backing them up. With tricky starter problems, I start at the thin wires to the solenoid, with ignition on, you should get pos to one thin and neg to the other, with start button pressed. Check which one is low power, and follow it back to the fault. With Yam multipin plugs on the solenoid, it is more difficult to do this, but you have to start at one end, and work back.
When starter button is pressed I get :
Red: 12.8V
Yellow: 0V
Blue: 0V
When starter button not pressed
Red:12.8V
Yellow: 10.5V
Blue: 10.5V
so the yellow and blue wires drop their voltage when the starter button is pressed, is this the problem? Or is this normal? I’ve never really dealt with electrical systems like this so sorry for my inexperience.
I also have replaced the positive wire from the battery to the starter relay, and the wire from the relay to the starter. Along with replacing the connection that connects to the battery negative terminal.
#4
Turns out it was my main switch that the key goes into, it was only giving the relay 2-3V but when I bypass with a little piece of wire it gets 12.6V. With the wire in, it started right up and started idling without adjustment! This thing has been sitting outside for at least a year and it runs not bad! Thanks for the help.
#5
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