OK PEOPLE I NEED SOME HELP, MROUX, PUT A POST IN HERE EARLIER ABOUT MY BRAKES. I JUST BOUGHT A USED 2000 BLASTER THAT IS IN REALLY EXCELLENT SHAPE WITH SOME NICE DRESSY STUFF TO GO WITH IT. ONLY PROBLEM IS THE BAKE BRAKES, THEY DONT WORK. OK I WILL GO THROUGH THE TIME LINE HERE AND SEE IF I CAN GET SOME HELP. I BOUGHT NEW BRAKE PADS, AND CLEANED OUT THE WHOLE CALIPER UNIT REAL GOOD AND LOADED IT WITH SYNTHETIC WHITE LITH GREASE, OILED THE CABLES BEST I COULD. PUT IT ALL BACK TOGETHER, ADJUSTED THE CABLES SO THERE WERE NO PLAY, THE PARKING BRAKE ADJUSTER IS ADJUSTED ALMOST ALL THE WAY, AND THE ADJUSTER BOLT ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE CALIPER IS SCREWED OUT ABOUT HALF INCH. I STEPED ON THE BRAKE PEDAL LIKE A 100 TIMES TO GET THE AUTO ADJUSTER TO WORK. I AM HAPPY TO SAY THAT THE BRAKES WORK, BUT NOT THE WAY I THINK THEY SHOULD. WHEN I STEP ON THEM THEY DONT LOCK UP AT ALL ONLY SLOW ME DOWN, IF I AM ON LOSE DIRT THEY WILL LOCK BUT NOT ALWAYS. I AM NOT TO SCHOOLED WITH THESE TYPE OF BRAKES, I AM USE TO HYDROLIC DISKS AND THOSE ARE GREAT AND PRETTY MUCH TROUBLE FREE. I JUST WANT SOME IDEA FROM SONE FELLOW BLASTER OWNERS, CAUSE I AM SURE THE BRAKES ARE SUPPOSE TO LOCK UP WHEN I PUT THE LEVER DOWN. WHEN I AM ON PAVEMENT, THEY ONLY SLOW ME DOWN AS WELL THEY WONT LOCK. WELL I TOLD YOU ALL WHAT I DID, SOME IDEAS WOUL BE NICE. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

What you should do is adjust the caliper adjuster where the cable goes in as far out as possible. If they still dont work you may want to think about a new rotor.

 

I had a Brand new Blaster in like 1989, or so. My first 4-wheeler. I drove the crap out of that thing. The only real problem I had was the rear brakes. Man did those things suck! They never worked except when it was new of course. Look for a hybrolic conversion kit off a Banshee or something. There was nothing then, but I'm sure there must be smething now. Whatever it cost's, it will be worth it.

 

Well I had something similar happen to my rear brakes on my 2000 Blaster. The first time the cable was defective, what had happened was the nylon sleeve inside the cable was breaking down and jamming the cable inside, it was replaced under warranty. The second time they stopped working I took the caliper apart to check on the auto adjuster, it turns out that when they replaced the cable they broke the little metal fingers that the adjuster ratches on and it would no longer auto adjust. I took the parts to the dealer, because I did not want to put the caliper back together to take it to the dealer, because the quad is still under warranty. So I go there and talk to the mechanic who did the work on the cable and he dennied ever changing the rear brake cable, so I went in and talked to the owner and he checked his computer and said they did the work like I had said. He checked over the guts to the caliper, and went up to the parts counter and told the parts guy to give me the new guts to the caliper. Which ended up fixing the whole problem.

 

I bought a 1988 blaster this spring. the back breaks didnt work. I cleaned the guts with carb cleaner and got the needle bearings rolling again. Backed out auto adjuster, then turned it in till pads touched rotor slightly. I packed it with wheel bearing greese and put it together. My brakes work flawlessly till this day, My brakes will lock up with little pressure. If the back brakes dont grab good dont blame the braking system, there just not set right or adjusted properly. Sure, hydrolic brakes would work better but do you think yamaha would still put the same brake system on the blaster from 1988-2002 if they only lasted 1 month?

 

Just open the caliper and turn the auto adjuster in some. Put it back together and see how it is. You may have to do this a few times to get it tight enough. The autoadjuster is a very bad design and doesn't work all the time. Also drill a hole and install a grease fitting on the top of the caliper near the small cooling fins. This way after riding you can just pump in some more white grease and all the water comes right out.