Just got RZ350 jugs for my Banshee now how do I make 'em work?
#31
11-09-2001, 10:02 PM
hey,
since its a battle of knowledge here..what was the motocross bike of the year in 1989, i know they recapped it in january motocross action but i lost the magazine. please give me some detals on the bike. i bought a 89 RM 250 in good shape and i thought it was bike of the year for 89 but nevr was sure
thanks
Mike
since its a battle of knowledge here..what was the motocross bike of the year in 1989, i know they recapped it in january motocross action but i lost the magazine. please give me some detals on the bike. i bought a 89 RM 250 in good shape and i thought it was bike of the year for 89 but nevr was sure
thanks
Mike
#32
11-10-2001, 04:19 PM
Holyman. Do you want / need a wiring diagram. I have both a full RZ diagram and a stripped down circuit for the Banshee conversion scanned in colour. On a side note picked up a complete RZ (accident damaged) for a song today....... this will form the basis for our shop quad conversion... never have to many toyz.....
kiwi
kiwi
#33
11-10-2001, 04:26 PM
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Yes to all the above. I haven't got my RZ jugs yet but I'm eagerly awaiting them. Can you email me with the diagrams? runnvs1@peoplepc.com
By the way how much is a "song" in Auckland?
By the way how much is a "song" in Auckland?
#34
11-10-2001, 09:12 PM
#35
11-11-2001, 12:11 AM
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Got the jugs today. They need to be sleeved due to a wrist pic coming loose in one. Didn't get into the ports but grooved the sleeve enough to need re-doing. One of the head crowns is kind of chewed up from a loose ring. What I need next is a parts breakdown or schematic to show me what else I need.
Can the head be re-chambered or is it trash?
I'd really like to know about the elimination kit so I don't have to install a battery and stator and all the wiring.
Can the head be re-chambered or is it trash?
I'd really like to know about the elimination kit so I don't have to install a battery and stator and all the wiring.
#36
11-11-2001, 01:31 AM
You still need to run the RZ stator and the wiring, battery elminator, haven't tried one but are supposed to work ok.
You need to cut the heads heavily to get the compression up. We use the RZ 250 head (allot smaller combustion dome) and recut the squish band to suit the larger bore, otherwise it is a bolt on swap, 155 psi or tehr abouts with the RZ 250 head.
Pro design head whilst a very nice piece of kit I don't think it is essential unless you are looking for mega compression ? but even then that's not adviseable on a quad for general trail use.
If you have the budget then go for it.
More progressive PV opening Hmmmmm there are allot of model variations but I haven't heard of that. There is a UK company that makes a control unit attachment such that you can alter the RPM range that the PV comes in at, but that's more for the Road race guys who want to dely the opening until higher rpm for maximum benefit in road race ported engine. Still could be worth looking into. For quad useage the stock settings for the PV seem to work really well.
How much you ask, so cheap I can't even bring myself to admitting........ well ok, US$ 250 for a complete runner but comestically beaten, dereged, the perfect parts bike, no expense plastic wear...... <grin>
Kiwi
You need to cut the heads heavily to get the compression up. We use the RZ 250 head (allot smaller combustion dome) and recut the squish band to suit the larger bore, otherwise it is a bolt on swap, 155 psi or tehr abouts with the RZ 250 head.
Pro design head whilst a very nice piece of kit I don't think it is essential unless you are looking for mega compression ? but even then that's not adviseable on a quad for general trail use.
If you have the budget then go for it.
More progressive PV opening Hmmmmm there are allot of model variations but I haven't heard of that. There is a UK company that makes a control unit attachment such that you can alter the RPM range that the PV comes in at, but that's more for the Road race guys who want to dely the opening until higher rpm for maximum benefit in road race ported engine. Still could be worth looking into. For quad useage the stock settings for the PV seem to work really well.
How much you ask, so cheap I can't even bring myself to admitting........ well ok, US$ 250 for a complete runner but comestically beaten, dereged, the perfect parts bike, no expense plastic wear...... <grin>
Kiwi
#37
11-16-2001, 03:03 AM
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Kiwi... can you send me a link or what ever else you have on the componants I need for this project?
I think my biggest problem with this whole project is not going to be buying the stuff and bolting it together but my desire to know EXACTLY HOW this stuff works.
I saw a "box" for the rz that was supposed to be for the servos but it had cables coming out of it and i just can't understand where the cables go.
what activates the power valves? is it related to timing, vacuum, throttle position? do the valves rotate 360 degrees or do they oscillate or do they open and close in increments?
an exploded microfische would be great so i can at least get the parts arrangement in mind.
sorry for so many questions but there just simply is nothing like this to even look at around here.
another thing... are any of the rd parts usable on the rz like the servos/controls. and what series numbers can be interchanged with the rz? {ie 250, 350, 500?}
I think my biggest problem with this whole project is not going to be buying the stuff and bolting it together but my desire to know EXACTLY HOW this stuff works.
I saw a "box" for the rz that was supposed to be for the servos but it had cables coming out of it and i just can't understand where the cables go.
what activates the power valves? is it related to timing, vacuum, throttle position? do the valves rotate 360 degrees or do they oscillate or do they open and close in increments?
an exploded microfische would be great so i can at least get the parts arrangement in mind.
sorry for so many questions but there just simply is nothing like this to even look at around here.
another thing... are any of the rd parts usable on the rz like the servos/controls. and what series numbers can be interchanged with the rz? {ie 250, 350, 500?}
#38
11-16-2001, 04:07 PM
this post turned into a flaming contest!! When it shouldn't have.
Knowsalot, on purpose or not, your name does $uck and is arrogant. Your posts are usually informative, but reading your name gets me in "defense mode"...when it shouldn't.
On another note, I can't say if it is american related, but you simply have to be STUCK ON STUPID not to understand that powervalves rule! You have better low end AND better top!! Is it so complicated to understand. When you have some knowledge, you get RZ jugs and work a lil, and if you're rich, you get FMF/Rossier...2 grand powervalves. Whichever you choose, a PV banshee will be faster AND easier to ride than a ported/big bore banshee. It doesn't take much to understand this. Enough said on that. Those who don't catch it shouldn't even try.
From what I had gathered at the time my banshee was working fine (when now it refutes any sort of fun for me -> for sale!), you need (this is all Kiwi's job!):
From RZ350:
cylinders
head
pv assembly (pv itself, cable, electric motor, ?PV black box?)
stator
flywheel
CDI
Mods to your shee:
battery or battery eliminator...Kiwi, I had heard the YPVS does a checkup before you start the engine...if you don't have no battery, you have no juice...and no juice, the PV won't budge...won't the CDI interpret this as an error, and prevent starting?
Grippy seat!
Custom parts:
Exahust adapter. RZ pipes bolt on, when banshee pipes are held by springs. When making those, be sure you keep the original port/pipe distance. Otherwise, you will kill the pipe tuning.
This should be it. Avvoid the ported pistons (Vito's...SS I think). Why? Vito's say they are NOT for ported cylinders. And what are RZ cylinders? Just like variable porting. When the valve is open, it is like you had a heavy porting, 3mm higher exahust port (and when the valve is closed, it's 2.5mm lower, I think...not sure if I remember right). It would go against the effect of the powervalve.
About the watercooled blaster, on www.b l u e t r a x x.com, there's some guy (dirt817, I think) who's currently building one. You might want to get ahold of him too.
Kiwi, you should write a book with all compatible low/top ends!! I'd be the first to buy it!!! lol
Knowsalot, on purpose or not, your name does $uck and is arrogant. Your posts are usually informative, but reading your name gets me in "defense mode"...when it shouldn't.
On another note, I can't say if it is american related, but you simply have to be STUCK ON STUPID not to understand that powervalves rule! You have better low end AND better top!! Is it so complicated to understand. When you have some knowledge, you get RZ jugs and work a lil, and if you're rich, you get FMF/Rossier...2 grand powervalves. Whichever you choose, a PV banshee will be faster AND easier to ride than a ported/big bore banshee. It doesn't take much to understand this. Enough said on that. Those who don't catch it shouldn't even try.
From what I had gathered at the time my banshee was working fine (when now it refutes any sort of fun for me -> for sale!), you need (this is all Kiwi's job!):
From RZ350:
cylinders
head
pv assembly (pv itself, cable, electric motor, ?PV black box?)
stator
flywheel
CDI
Mods to your shee:
battery or battery eliminator...Kiwi, I had heard the YPVS does a checkup before you start the engine...if you don't have no battery, you have no juice...and no juice, the PV won't budge...won't the CDI interpret this as an error, and prevent starting?
Grippy seat!
Custom parts:
Exahust adapter. RZ pipes bolt on, when banshee pipes are held by springs. When making those, be sure you keep the original port/pipe distance. Otherwise, you will kill the pipe tuning.
This should be it. Avvoid the ported pistons (Vito's...SS I think). Why? Vito's say they are NOT for ported cylinders. And what are RZ cylinders? Just like variable porting. When the valve is open, it is like you had a heavy porting, 3mm higher exahust port (and when the valve is closed, it's 2.5mm lower, I think...not sure if I remember right). It would go against the effect of the powervalve.
About the watercooled blaster, on www.b l u e t r a x x.com, there's some guy (dirt817, I think) who's currently building one. You might want to get ahold of him too.
Kiwi, you should write a book with all compatible low/top ends!! I'd be the first to buy it!!! lol
#39
11-16-2001, 04:20 PM
oops...didn't see your last post q?
The pv is activated through the CDI, related to rpms.. So I GUESS it would plug to the CDI, and somewhere on the wiring (I doubt the CDI would put out enough V to activate the motor).
From their shape (have never seen in real), looks like they rotate...not 360, that's for sure.
About the RD/RZ compatibility, I know RD400 rods fit RZ/banshees (which are the same anyways), but are 5mm longer. So if you fitted Blaster pistons (5mm offsetted vs banshee pistons) in your cylidners, you'd have a long rod YPVS 370 (blaster is 178cc)...sort of a killer engine...wouldn't it?
You can also get RZ shift forks, which, along with billet shifter and shift star, make wonders (dixit b370...can't remember from which forum).
I'm pretty sure though most of the wiring is independent for each machine...not 100% sure though.
As for microfiche...you'll have to dig your grandma's attic!! uh...maybe check Yamaha Of Troy, they have microfiche, just can't remember from what year.
All this being said, do not give up!! But you would have been better getting a complete RZ engine (Def found one for 600$), and pick the parts you needed...but oh well. Have fun with what you have!
The pv is activated through the CDI, related to rpms.. So I GUESS it would plug to the CDI, and somewhere on the wiring (I doubt the CDI would put out enough V to activate the motor).
From their shape (have never seen in real), looks like they rotate...not 360, that's for sure.
About the RD/RZ compatibility, I know RD400 rods fit RZ/banshees (which are the same anyways), but are 5mm longer. So if you fitted Blaster pistons (5mm offsetted vs banshee pistons) in your cylidners, you'd have a long rod YPVS 370 (blaster is 178cc)...sort of a killer engine...wouldn't it?
You can also get RZ shift forks, which, along with billet shifter and shift star, make wonders (dixit b370...can't remember from which forum).
I'm pretty sure though most of the wiring is independent for each machine...not 100% sure though.
As for microfiche...you'll have to dig your grandma's attic!! uh...maybe check Yamaha Of Troy, they have microfiche, just can't remember from what year.
All this being said, do not give up!! But you would have been better getting a complete RZ engine (Def found one for 600$), and pick the parts you needed...but oh well. Have fun with what you have!
#40
11-17-2001, 02:37 AM
Team
the top end microfiche, I can e-mail to any one who's interested.
The powervalves are operated by the cables from the servo motor, the servo open/closes the rotary power valve. the servo is actavated from a signal from the CDI via the YPVS "black box" hence why you need a battery or condenser, powervalves are elctrically operated.
I can digital video / photograph the whole settup for any one based on my RZ parts bike before we dismantle it ?? let me know.
Dt 200, DIRT 817, I supplied him with all the parts via a Canadian connection. His blaster is nearly done. looks rad as hell. gain parts fiche's and details are on my site. Dirt has great photo's off all the parts on his site also.
Kiwi
the top end microfiche, I can e-mail to any one who's interested.
The powervalves are operated by the cables from the servo motor, the servo open/closes the rotary power valve. the servo is actavated from a signal from the CDI via the YPVS "black box" hence why you need a battery or condenser, powervalves are elctrically operated.
I can digital video / photograph the whole settup for any one based on my RZ parts bike before we dismantle it ?? let me know.
Dt 200, DIRT 817, I supplied him with all the parts via a Canadian connection. His blaster is nearly done. looks rad as hell. gain parts fiche's and details are on my site. Dirt has great photo's off all the parts on his site also.
Kiwi