Yes, the jets I purchased are Dyno jets. You can go to www.dynojet.com and order more jets. $2.00 each. I may not ever need the bigger ones. I bought 155/160/165/170/175 jets. With different mods it may require different size jets. The more air you injest and remove the bigger the main jet you will need. Some pipes move more air than others. Like I said. The 155/160 seemed to give me the most power. It's the time of year where the desert is to hot to ride in and the mountain trails become the prefered ride. 4-7000' requires a smaller jet, thus why I'm at the 150/155 now. Good luck.

P.S. Don't mix mikuni jets with dyno jet needles etc. And vise versa. With fuel additives (detergents) Its hard to get a good reading from the plugs. It washes away some of the color. So if I am a bit rich now, it's ok by me. I feel more comfortable having even just a little color on the plug than no color at all. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

Cool, Thanks man, I will see how the 146, 148 works and go from there, since that is what I put in there.

 

RaptorRidr

Keep me posted on how this works for you. My Yoshi exhaust and jet kit should arrive tomorrow and I plan to be wrenchin this weekend. I also have the K&N Prodesign kit to pop in at the same time and I was planning on running without the lid as well. Thanks

 

will do sand! I hope to have all the jetting bugs out by this weekend, unless it is right now, I will let you know....Later

 

Now you have me thinking...

My bike is running so nice right now..it slighty rich.....feels like an animal..i think if i go up another notch it will be too rich
i sure am curious though...Hmmmmmm[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

Well I went out riding with my new set up of 146/148 dynojets, and all the other stage 2 kit specs, like 3 turns out and the needle they supplied. I am not running a lid and I have the foam pro flo, it still is way lean on this set up.... I put the lid back on with the baffle cut out and no holes in it and it is still lean on top, I want to run no lid just because I can get more power out of it I believe, should I maybe change the needle clip position? or just keep stepping up my mains, also after this the stock pilot is still ok???? I think maybe i should try stepping that up as well? any help would be great, I need to get this thing right for a ralley comming up this month [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] thanks guys.......

 

Ok update, I just checked the plug again and with the lid ON I have a very light tan, no lid white, how far do you think i need to go to run with no lid at this point???

 

go up to 150 and 152

should be on the money....

 

joeyd, glad the airbox is working good for you [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] can I have it back [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img] lol.
I have my motor parts over at Trinity for a 686 kit!!! wooo hooo!!

 

Raptorrider

Here is how to read your plugs strait from the trinity website and Harry Mcdermott himself.

How do I read my spark plug?
TO READ PLUGS PROPERLY YOU WILL NEED A 10x ILLUMINATED MAGNIFYING GLASS

1,2,3. This is how it's done!


1. You set your heat range from the ground strap. (this is the piece closest to the piston)

2. You do all the plug readings for jetting from the base ring (thebase ring is what the ground strap is welded to at the end of the threads)

3. You determine detonation and timing issues from the porcelain.
(The porcelain shows preignition/detonation, it will not accurately determine jetting / air/fuel ratios)

DO NOT BASE JETTING DECISIONS ON THE PORCELAIN COLOR.

1. How to determining plug heat range:

The ground strap is your window to getting this right. If the "color" of the ground strap "changes" too-close to the ground-strap's end, (the end opposite of the base ring), then the heat-range is "too-cold", (heat transfer is to quick to the base ring)
If the "color" of the strap changes near where it is welded to the base-ring, then it means that the plug heat-range is "too-hot", (heat transfer to the base ring is to slow causing the deposits to be burned off the strap completely) The strap at this point could start working like a "glow-plug", probably resulting in pre-ignition/and/or detonation. The properly set heat-range is when the "color" is at the half-way point on the strap.

2. Reading the base ring to determine jetting:

The base ring "color" is very close to the color of the piston crown and is used to determine the jetting. Your looking for the soot color to be a nice light to medium brown, (color is always hard to describe) if the color doesn1t go all the way around the base ring (at least one full thread turn on the plug) or the color is whitish it is way too lean. If the color goes all the way around, but there is a spotting of heavy dry soot on the top of the color, you are too rich. ( TWO STROKE JETTING WILL BE A LITTLE WETTER LOOKING AND DARKER THEN A FOUR STROKE )

3. Read the porcelain to determine detonation / preignition:

The first signs of detonation / preignition will be seen on the porcelain down in the plug, It shows up as tiny black or shinny specks of aluminum. Also Look very close around the center electrode where the porcelain intersects, this will appear to be melting between the insulator and the electrode.

Detonation is caused by the air/fuel mixture exploding rather then burning. This gives off a sound, (a knock) this sound is the result of a shock wave, this wave disrupts the boundary layer of cooler gases that cover the internal parts of the combustion chamber. This causes a very rapid rise in pressure and temperature. The results are holes in the top or sides of the pistons, blown head gaskets, broken rods, (all bad stuff) This can also shock the rings from there seal causing oil to form as little spots on the porcelain.


Harrys words

Also Joeyd. Once you get to 150 with dynojets they go up in increments of 5 after that. So the closest he could get is 150/155