Well as you all know, i rode with the dealership guys this week to check out some of the "sputtering" issues that we all seem to have, minus one or two of you...lol. Today, i took the bike to the shop because i couldn’t even keep the bike running at idle. Choke would only kill the bike. The only way to keep the bike running was to keep in the throttle a little. Was sputtering even parked now.

We "they" took the carb off and checked it...clean and operational. The float was fine and everything was working. The breather was clean, the oil was at proper level (just so you know, if you have to much oil in the bike it will loose compression, this is caused by having to much pressure on the underside of the piston and compensating the pressure of the firing). throttle cable is fine. choke is fine.

The bike is getting "worse" as we/they go. Dont yet know what is wrong with the bike, but it is covered under warranty.

Here is a bit of info for you that dont know what a dealer has to go through for warranty work: First, there is a reported problem (by consumer), then troubleshooting begins. The dealer is only allotted a certain amount of time to figure out WHAT is wrong. If they go over, tough. IF they call the Yamaha (or almost any other manufacturer for that matter) the rep will say, "well, when you figure it out, call us, so we know". They STILL wont pay the dealer anymore for time spent finding out what is wrong. I am now starting to see why dealers dont like fixing things that they dont quite know what is wrong. If they only get paid for 2 hours of troubleshooting and it takes 6 to figure out what is wrong... TOUGH.

So have a little patients with your dealers when they are trying to fix your bike. I just hope that there is a little appreciation for the dealers that really do, "go out of their way" to help us.

As far as what is wrong with the bike?????? i really dont know. It might be a valve problem due to excess heat, or it could be .....bad rings? It really does sound like a compression or air/fuel, but heck...i am just a rider. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

Here is a little info for bypassing the reverse limiter too. This is in great thanks to MMcGuire:

Under the driver side, side panel, there are two wires that run from the CDI along side the upper part of the opening. You really cant miss these wires. They are in a group of wires and it is the only one that is green with a white stripe. If you use just a simple 3.00 toggle and splice into the green with white stripe wire with one end of the toggle wire and run the other wire from the toggle to a ground (like to the frame of the bike) you will have just bypassed the reverse rev limiter. simple as that.

What this does, is fool the CDI into thinking that you are not even in reverse when you flip the toggle. If the toggle is in the other position, the wire works as it should. What you are creating is a temporary ground when the toggle is engaged. It is simple, it works and is VERY cheap. I recommend putting the toggle right next to the shifter/slightly above. This way, when you need to reverse out of the mud hole, just hit the toggle, and INSTANT max RPM's. Flip the toggle back off, and shift back into desired gear!

This still does not help us with the forward sputtering that we are getting. Today, i rode with MMcGuire on a short mud ride. I took my wifes bike (bone stock) and Mikes bike has ITP 589 27". Both bikes sputtered in every gear (high/low) and 2wd, 4wd, 4dif lock. Mike had never experienced it before, but he is one that keeps the tires spinning all the time in the mud. He stopped and then went to hit the gas....and SPUTTER! Now he knows what i am disgusted with.

Every bike that i have rode with and ride on, does it. The only thing that i can think of about others bikes that are not doing it, is that maybe the riding conditions are different for them. TRY IT, if you ride in the muck. Come to a full stop in the muck and hit the gas....i am sure that you will see what i am talking about.

Within the same side, at the bottom of the transmission housing, there is a white wire that comes out with some others. I am thinking that this is the wire that will bypass ALL limiters with a switch. I just need to figure out if it can just be grounded (with toggle) or what? Any help in this matter would be appreciated.

 

I'm glad your quad is under warranty for all this!
Don't feel too bad for your dealer, for every 2 hour job that takes 6 hours there is 25~2 hour jobs he does in 45 mins.

 

You are probably right moose!! lol

here is a quote from another individual:

"i just left my dealer where he told me that yamaha said that they have a vapor lock problem and that they are sending heat shield for my tank , carb, and pipe. also sending new side panels that have i intake hose of some kind to force air. the rep said it is already on the o3 models also my set of floorboords will be in in about a month they are being made now for the 03. he said yamaha did not anticipate people not standing on the pegs . we shall see. my stuff should be here monday as they are sending it fedex. oh yah they are also adjusting my valves when they put the stuff on and also want it back in after 200 miles because the rep said the heat is making the valves need adjuting more often and are hoping this fixes the problem. they also replaced my gauges because my clock did not keep time".


I have spoke with my dealership today and they said that they called yamaha about it last night and told them just to keep working on it and they didnt know what it could be.

After reading this "quote" above, i called them back and the dealer said that it very well could be losing compression from the valves. He is going to find out if yamaha is going to cover doing a valve job and also see about ordering the parts if this is true.

I will keep ya updated on what transpires.

Jonathan