Good info MOOSE, but I gotta ask ya.... what are your pilots at now? I know YOU, of all people, have not left them stock! (O.M.G. DAVE - I just thought of something!) Your > "SAND DRAGON" Raptor, breathes too well for it to run AT ALL with the stock pilots. I have the 27.5's in mine.
Dude, you should get that painted on your quad![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-cool.gif[/img]

Hey guy, I thought the same as well - the numbers don't match (seems like I should be going higher in jet size, not down to a smaller number) BUT they provide more gas (as said above) because of the sharper and more tapered needles! I would say from what I read on these forums, for the Raptor, the Jetkit guidelines are "dead on" if you follow them and pay attention to how the needles are assembled with the little washers and clip.

You'll love the kit!!!

 

Yes I'm running the stock pilots!!
I only have a problem when I've been putting around slowly & give it a little gas (less than 1/8 throttle).
It actually sounds like it's loading up. I can hear it going "POP POP POP" as the engine hits. It's not back firing just running so slow I can hear every stroke it makes.
I thought I may be rich on the bottom & I would turn the air corrections in (or is it out to lean this circut?) a half turn. But most of the people seem to have a larger pilot jet with a similar set up.
Yes I'm confused now!!

 

Moose,
I think turning the screws in will be leaner.

 

Yes in is leaner. I talked to the Mechanic at my dealership & he said it sounded rich also. I'm going to start with 1/4 turn in & see what happens.

 

Great info. guys, thanks a million! We'll go with Dyno recommendations and go from there. I can't wait to get on this thing after we're done. Thanks again.

 

Moose, let me know how the pilots turn out for you. I am running the stock pilots 3 turns out with the lid off and I am wondering if I am too lean. I hear others increasing their pilot size and I'm confused also. It seems to run well but I don't want a lean condition.

Could the fact that the dyno run with the air box lid off was turbulant due to not having air velocity that you would have under normal accelleration? Just a thought

 

Sandjunkie, I'll let you know how it works out. I'm going to have to get one of those fancy screwdrivers so I don't have to remove the carb to adjust the screws!

Air velocity should have nothing to do with the turbulance since the snorkel sits behind the engine there is no ram effect & with the lid off the only place it can get air is from under the seat any way.

I asked several people that got better numbers & a smooter curve with the lid off wether they had the seat on when they did the dyno pull & they all said the seat was off. with the seat off the air has a straight shot in to the air box, with the seat on (which is how I ride mine HAHA) the top of the airbox & the bottom of the seat are very close together & causes the air to make a sharp turn & then you get the turbulance.

I was at a test & tune & decided to run (3 passes) with the lid off to see what happened, I ran 2 tenths slower!! My raptor is jetted slightly rich so with the lid off it should have been closer to optimun air fuel ratio & should have run faster.

With the Pro Flo adaptor & K&N filter the stock airbox is stuffed full. I'm going to get the Sparks airbox when it's released & the turbulance problem should be worked out in that box.

 

Moose, just to let you know, I have the same problem, throttle response is fine when you wick the throttle & it pulls very hard on top, better than ever, however, when running with no lid the 1/4-1/2 throttle has some sputtering if you stay there too long. Other people are having the same problem, they just don't know it or don't want to admit it.

I have tried just about every jetting combo, stock, Dynojet, you name it, the bottom line is that the trouble clears up when I cover most of the air box. It is just too much air flow at lower throttle positions. I discovered that you can look for leaks in the carb boots, exhaust, check float levels, change pilot jets, try every clip pos, change mains, adjust fuel screw settings etc, it just doesn't matter, its just too much air flow with no lid. We are learning the hard way why Dynojet & Team Alba do not recommend removing the airbox lid.

However, we are aggressive males who want max power, we must not give up so easily! Besides, I can't put my airbox lid back on since I butchered it beyond use & don't feel like buying a new one. I will spend hours upon hours trying to get it right before I break down & buy a new lid.

I am currently jetted 22.5 pilots, 3 turns each, clip=5, mains=165/170, no lid, Full Yosh exhaust, & as I said before, she pulls better on top (1/2-full throttle) than ever before. I am determined to try a few more things before I break down & buy a new lid & put it back on. Since it seems that she runs much better with clip=5, as oppossed to clip=2 or 3, I was going to try filing down the needle length such that clip=5 would be more like clip=6. If it works I am my own hero, if it gets worse then I beleive I know why. The size of the slide cutaway is what determines how much air gets thru the carb. Lower clip positions(richer) lets in more fuel for sure but it actually lets a little more air thru as well. If we are getting too much air, then a little more is still too much. If we can't increase the fuel enough, then we need to change other parameters, an area that most agree requires more knowledge. Well, lets start learning! We all want the massive air flow in 1/2-full throttle for the most hp gains. However, we need to tame the air flow at lower throttle settings to get the jetting just right all around. A carb slide with less cutaway would let in less air at lower throttle positions but would not be a limiting factor at full throttle. I called my local Yam dealer who advised me to call Sudko @ 800-998-3529 about getting different sized carb slides. Supposedly they supply carb parts for many different mfgs. I called them today & they were getting ready to close but said if I call Monday with the stock slide part number, they may be able to help me. I'll let you know if I get anywhere with them. I'll also let you know if shortening the needle length helps too.

 

Actually my problem is at just off idle to about 1/8 or 1/4 throttle & I am running with my lid on but have 5~1" Univents installed.

I may be crazy but it feels like it's too rich at the smaller throttle openings.
My mid range (1/4~1/2 throttle) is very crisp & responsive.

If I'm running around at the smaller throttle openings for more than a couple of seconds it seems to load up until I nail it & then it just rips. What's messing me up is that most people with my mods seem to be putting in a larger pilot jet & that seems to be the wrong direction to me. I'm going to talk to vilnrk & get him to bring his angled screwdriver To Atoka next weekend & I'll try to lean my air corrections to see if it helps.

 

Well, got the Pro Flow intake, K&N filter, Yoshi pipe, and jets installed on the Raptor. WOW!! This things moves out. Went by Dyno Jet recommendations for the jetting. 148 on the right and 146 on the left. The clip is on the 4th slot with the stock spacers just as they were. The pilot/slow jets are stock. It runs awesome through the entire RPM range. No bogging or loading up while idling or around 1/8th throttle. The jetting seems to be damn close to dead on. Have to get some more seat time on it and do a plug check, but runs awesome. Thought I would let you guys know. Thanks for the advice.

btw - I put 3 1" holes in the air box lid.