2.25 is the leanest I have ever heard of on the screws. Did you check your plug to see what it looked like?

 

No I didn,t check yet as I only went for a very short ride to check it out. I,ll be checking that later on today as i just finished night shift and i am waiting for the shop to open so i can go buy some new rubber. Razor 6-ply rear and 4-ply for the front.

If you read from earlier on in this post I said I called several dealers in my area for stock air screw adjs. and all dealers had different specs. From .9and 1 turn to 3.5 and 3 turns.

Where do you think I should be? Also I,ll be shopping for a flexable screw driver today.

I have a maintance manual and it says pilot outlet CARB #-1.0, CARB #2-0.9. are they refering to the # of turns?

 

If you want I have a stock airbox lid to sell if you are interested private message me.

 

na, na, na-na, na...my pipe is bigger than your pipe!

 

Most of what I have heard are around 2.75-3.0. I think they all vary a little bit depending on evrything. I have heard a few differnt methods of adjusting them correctly. One is to set your idle and turn the screws until it idles the smoothest.

This part is all a quote from some one off of here but I can't remember who.
"A vaccum gauge can be picked up at any auto parts store. The # on the gauge need to read from 0 to +20-25. The gauge will have a small vaccum line that is about 15 inches long. This attaches to the nipple thats exposed on the top left intake boot.
I will give you a run down of the tunnig process for my Raptor. First I attach the line to the nipple and lay the gauge somewhere while tuning. I use a flexable screwdriver....now I get set up to adjust one mixture screw and start the engine. The vaccum gauge is extremely erratic at first....I turn the screw almost all the way in and start to back out...the engine RPM goes up slightly and the erratic condition gets better...I turn the screw a little more and the erratic condittion gets more evident by the gauge...I have went to far...I back up and feel pretty confident. I go to the other side and do the same process. I am close... I do this process one more time on each carb and the erratic condition is only slight...I atribute this to my cam specs. For my Raptor the optimum settings are 2 3/4 and 3 1/2 turns out with 27.5 pilots."

I hope that this helps.
I really need to learn how to type.

 

Ward that is some very good info I will give that a try. Were did you get your screwdriver?

 

Thanks ward!!!!!

 

Let's make this topic 4 pages long.

Thanks for the info Ward, but....
You guy know what's good about this, nothing.....I sold my stockers and have the FCR's coming with my motor, which is all on the way. So now I get to learn how to tune the new FCR's. OH BOY, what fun, nothing like starting all over! It can't be any worse then trying to dial in the stockers.

Anybody have experience with the FCR's? Anything I should know about them when trying to get my Rap all dialed in perfect? SPEAK UP!

 

First off-jessiejames- I went to my local MAC tools dealer and picked up a flexable screw driver today. Cost me 20 clams here in canada so thats probably like 50 cents down there. They accually call it a carburation screw driver, about 12-15 inches long and interchangable bits. should work good.

Guys is it ok to run the screws all the way in and fire this thing up or should I start at 1 turn out and go from there? I think I,ll try it by ear first and maybe buy a vacuum gauge tomorrow to see how close I was. Also bought a smaller front sprocket to try and satisfy my craving until I can afford the 686 kit.

The screw driver will really save alot of frustration from not having to remove the carbs to turn a screw half a turn. Although for those who don.t want to buy the screw driver I made a couple last week by cutting a piece of welding rod and grinding the tip down to fit the screw head. Threaded 2 or 3 nuts on the end of the rod for grip. The one for the left was about 1.5 inches long and the right was about 3 inches long. You can with a little patience fit a few fingers in there to adj. those things. Just not with the engine running. Better than having to remove the carbs!

 

Glad I could help. I am just passing the info along the train, I think that origanly came from airraptor or Blue Leader.

I thought I would add this, I run NO airbox at all, with K&N clamp ons, and don't expierence the hesitation that everyone is talking about. I may have just gotten lucky, it would be the first time, or it might be the K&Ns.

My screwdrivers are both ho-made from the ends of screw drivers that I had. The better of the two has a 1/2 inch of welding rod across the bottom of it for grip.