I'm thinking of buying or making one for my quad. Just looking for input from anyone who has tried one.

 

Why do you need to weld Ti?

 

Sorry, I don't have one (but would like to) The dyno I used had one.

He has a Ti head pipe & the closer the sensor is to the combustion chamber the more accurate it will be.

 

O thanks, I'm a little slow today.

 

I was thinking of using a heated sensor and mounting it just after the collector.Do you think a LED type meter would be readable in sunlight?I could also use analog or a digital voltmeter.

 

I looked deep into this a little while back.

The units from performance auto places will come with the 2 wire (that needs welded to into a bung in the headpipe) or possibly the 4 wire with its own heating element powered from the vehicles battery, neither of the o2 sensors work linear, they will constantly flutter from rich to lean since they are adapted from actual car applications where the cars computer changes the fuel ratio very fast from rich to lean in order compensate for inaccurate readings of cheap easy to implement sensors. The A/F ratio will be just about right if the cars computer can determine the amount of time spent rich and lean.

Dont get me wrong it will work with the right circuitry to read it, but the tolerances have to be exact since voltages from a regular o2 sensor are in the 0.0-0.8vdc range and cant be biased, if your any good with electronics I have a schematic that uses a lm339 chip that will be the easiest to use. it will still be glitchy since the available o2 sensors are not made to stay in the center of the spectrum

There are better oxygen sensors that read linear and have outputs from 0-5vdc but they are very expensive, and come on some newer cars to adhere to stricter emission standards.

The best bet would be to book some time on a fully equiped dyno, that will give you the readings.

 

Air fuel link.

I hate helping my competition, but I also hate seeing someone break down. This is already set up, You just have to buy it and mount it.

DuneDevil

 

DuneDevil, I seen that one. But I do'nt know if LED would be readable on a quad in sunlight and it's pricey for a single wire nonheated sensor. Heated sensors are more stable and a litte more accurate. If I buy one I think I'll get one from CB performance. It's analog and has a heated sensor for a lot less money. Have you or anyone you know used one?
Even cheaper is just the guage from summit racing but again it's LED and looks nicer than the K&N.

 

007 and King thanks for your input. I agree, I would not use this type of sensor on a 700+hp turbo EFI engine. I'm not looking for perfection or I'd go EFI. Just want to be jetted better than 90% of the others. I ride from sealevel to 6000' and temps. from 45 to 95 and like everyone else do mods to my quad and do'nt what to dyno every time there's a change. I think this could be done with a cheap set up if it was checked with a calibrated dyno first. While it is not linear it could still be used to determine the ratio at WOT, Half, and idle. Being able to adjust the carb. for those three settings might not be perfect, but I think would be closer than 90% of the rest.

 

I tried a cheap one (under $250) on in an automotive application before and it was a joke. As already mentioned....you have too spend some serious cash for a dependable a/f monitor. A weld in sensor would create air flow problems in small diameter atv applications. Need a sniffer out back.